Recent content by bunnyc

My first thought was 'what do these both have in common'. Both powered from the light switch at the end of the steering column. I'll start at the front. Much later I learned they share a common ground. Those smarter than me that would have started at the rear, well, hats off to you.

Hindsight is 20/20

Yes, tail light and brake light not working. Checked bulbs: OK, then started at the cutout switch and worked my way back. Hours with my multimeter and jumper wires. I'm old and slow. Final outcome: The three carriage bolts holding the tail light bracket (I just have the one on the drivers side)...

I just changed mine a couple days ago. If you're doing it with the engine in the car, the best thing I can say is at least the old gasket scrapings won't fall into your engine. I used a combination of two sets. Cork on the sides, glued in place. The Teflon coated front rope seal and rear gasket...

A good ground is essential. Yep.

I have eleven 12V batteries that I maintain. I use two Xtreme charger/desulfators, rotating every week or so.

Absolutely the best car I ever owned was a VW Beetle. Easy to work on, goes great in the snow and did appreciate in value. Drove the same '73 Super Beetle for 26 years, daily and all over the US. Racked up over 350K miles. Rebuilt the engine every 100K. Kept it completely stock. Driven sensibly...

I do. Here they are.

The valve cover on my '30 engine has the plug shown in the photo. Looks like it could be 1/8" NPT.

Here are a couple photos of Model A era jack stands that were purchased by my grandfather. They've been in use by my family for 4 generations. I decided to clean them up a bit and retire them. Brass tag reads 'Walker Rigid Rack Auto Support 791'

Mine was hacked 4 days ago. I have an email account with the rural telephone co. Someone in India got ahold of my account and sent out 9845 emails in one night. My account was shut down for spamming. Telephone rep hand delivered a new password to me yesterday. Working OK now, but my "email...

I use a 12V timing light and degree marker by the crank. I use a spare 12V battery to power the light. I've been told that the 12V light will work with a 6V battery, just won't be as bright. Haven't tried that yet.

Neil in Oz (sommcain) nailed it with his first post to Ford Barn! Greased the throw out bearing and the noise went away. Happy. Thanks Neil!

The last time I started my A, this is the sound coming from my engine at idle (best way to describe it). Rhythmic and intermittent. Stops, then starts again as throttle increases. At first I thought it was coming from the water pump. Now, I don't think so. Maybe a manifold leak? I'll let you...

That is a neat, useful tip. Thanks.