Recent content by Brian Philpott

Hello from sunny Camberley Don't be tempted to run without the tube. Crankcase pressure fluctuations will blow out through the bearing cap and dump all of the oil exiting the rear main into the bell housing. The aim is to get the bottom of the pipe below the surface of the oil in the sump to...

I did an end-to-end check of the wiring today and only found one small cut in the horn hot line insulation that was not in a location that could have grounded and caused the fuse to blow. All wiring between the terminal block and dash was fine with nothing loose. Also found stoplights blown as a...

Gentlemen Thank you all for your comprehensive inputs. I've been at the All Ford Rally today so haven't been able to pursue further wiring checks. I'll do that tomorrow and, if I don't find any damaged wires or loose connections, I'll give the ign circuit its own fused supply straight off the...

Thanks for the input Ron. What I can't figure out is why the fuse is blowing as it's on the battery side of the ammeter and buffered by battery capacity and shouldn't see the runaway genny voltage. However, you have got me thinking. Maybe the fuse blowing is a cause not an effect. If the fuse...

I fitted a modern points/condenser plate on my car a few years back. In the last year I've had the classic symptoms of condenser failure on three occasions- misfire/backfire and loss of sparks. In each case I found burnt points and a blown main fuse. All the failures occurred within a half mile...

Go for the best quality copper you can buy. I used a silicon/composite type and it etched deeply into the head and block after 2000miles. I had to have both milled to restore the mating surfaces.

The temperature should be measured in the outlet line from the head to the rad. I use a water outlet casting with a tapped boss and route the sender wire along a radiator stay to the firewall. It looks tidy and is unlikely to get damaged

Well done on the new website. I look forward to future developments. I've purchased a set of cast iron drums and hubs and need to fit the bearing cone tracks into the front hubs. They are a slight interference fit. Is it best to make up tooling to pull these in cold or is it better to heat up...