Recent content by BN

My 1956 292/Fordomatic had a noise that sounded just like that, and went completely away at just above idle. I removed the flywheel and it had loose rivets which hold the mounting tabs to the flywheel. I replaced the old flywheel with a single piece 1957 flywheel which solved the problem.

Watch out for glass thickness. I replaced all my side window glass about 15 years ago from the Crown Victoria Association (if I remember correctly). If not from there, it was from Concours Parts. I recently had to replace the passenger side door glass and ordered one from Auto City Classic...

I've had batteries behave like this - providing a low current, but when you hit it with a high current demand something opens inside the battery. Have you tried a different battery. Since it's a 12V, maybe you could "borrow" one from your daily driver.

X3 on propane torch. Heat a small section (on the underside if accessible) just enough so that it peels off with a putty knife. Move to another section some distance away. Keep feeling the panel with your hand so it doesn't get too hot. This is what I did with zero panel warpage.

Do you have a high compression head? Compression pressure should (roughly) be the compression ratio x atmospheric pressure (14.7 psi at sea level and 68* F). A 6:1 CR would relate to the #3 and #4 readings. A stock 4.2:1 CR would relate to the #1 reading.

You should probably do a leak down test on another cylinder to compare air leak noises.

I agree with Dick S. Do a diagnosis first. Obtain (or make from an old spark plug) an air fitting that will screw into the spark plug hole on #3 and hook up a compressor hose to it. Do the abbreviated leak down test. You will need a compressor, but a small one will work fine. Where you hear...

I sold a cast iron part from a visible gas pump recently. Although I only sent one part, the buyer received several ! Fed Ex referred me to a ton of paper work to fill out, including how I arrived at the value (I just sold it for $X), etc, etc. I returned the buyer his bid price and his...

You might check your battery cable that runs from the battery to the starter. If it's routed incorrectly and/or incorrect length, it might be contacting the pedal arm and almost worn through the insulation - causing it to ground out resulting in weak spark to the distributor.

In the mid fifties I remember a guy in Yellville Arkansas who used his Model A daily. He had removed the entire front end and engine and had beams extending from the frame to the horse in front of it.

Looks like the "Train Car" was a slow moving affair. The speed reduction in the chain drive looks like somewhere between 3:1 - 4:1 . However, anything over 25 mph looks like it might be a bad idea. No brakes either.

I removed the left side motor mount by utilizing two simple 5/8" all threads connected by a threaded collar. One end to the frame and the other end against the end of the clutch/brake shaft. Like Dave said, it doesn't take much to move the frame enough.

Maybe he wanted the more narrow 21" tires for "mushing" through the snow. Don't see snow in the picture though. However, maybe it's coming. You can see the rearmost dogs' breath so it's probably cold enough.

I've used lacquer and epoxy primer from TCP with no known problems. I had used PPG lacquer prior to using TCP and didn't see much (if any) difference. I did notice that their price for a gallon of Kewanee Green or Elkpoint Green lacquer went up substantially to $229 . I was using a $500...

When I received my engine from the rebuilder (I did the assembly), the fiber gear had zero backlash at one position and way too much backlash 180* from there. The center must have been miss-machined. I replaced it with an aluminum gear. It was noisy for a while, but it didn't take long to wear...