Recent content by ALmotoman

Hey, thanks for everyone's help.

That's what's so frustrating. I've had two different carbs on the workbench numerous times and neither have ever shown evidence of leaking. And yet, at least one third of the float bowl fuel disappears overnight with the top of the carb left in place. Go figure.

Very well said and I could not agree with you more. My new Airtex E8902 pumps like a Texas oil well, but I don't believe that it has helped appreciably with my hard starting problem. My continuing problem could very well be as simple as a bad power/economizer valve. I have tried many, both the...

I have read and reread the installation/operation instructions for my Airtex E8902 electric fuel pump dozens of times and nowhere does it mention reversing the -/+ wire connections to accommodate a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. Heck, I even spoke with an Airtex technical support guy...

Thanks. That's good to know if I ever go back to electronic ignition. Points ignition is working just fine now.

Airtex E8902 Debacle Update #3. I woke up this morning thinking that my Ford has a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. I bet if I were to reverse the polarity on the ground and power wires that little sucker/pusher pump would probably spring right to life. I did and it did. It works fine...

Airtex E8902 Debacle Update #2. This is exactly what I woke up this morning thinking. In testing the pump yesterday it operated backwards, so my plan this morning is to reverse the wiring connections and see what happens. My guess is that it will work perfectly. I have a call into Airtex tech...

Airtex E8905 Debacle update #1. Took the fuel pump out from under the car to test if it was sucking and pushing properly. Had the inlet (fuel filter end) hose in a container of fuel (representing the fuel tank) and the outlet (pump end) hose in an empty container (representing the carb). No...

Installed an AirtexE8902 electric fuel pump (the gold standard, right?) to prime the Holley 94 2-barrel carb when the ’48 Ford Tudor Super Deluxe Flathead has been sitting for a few hours or a few days. Wired it into a toggle switch and then into the ignition switch. Turned on the ignition...

Hi Jim, I don’t know you except through this forum and your postings. I have always appreciated your genuine willingness to share your knowledge to help others with their ignition woes. I am so sorry for the current medical challenges that you face. I know that our God has a plan for each of our...

Sorry, wrong thread.

I initially wanted to keep my '48 "rabbit ear" distributor original too. I spent literally hours trying to fit eight sparkplug wires, plus the distributor wire, through the ears into the cap. I get that Ford was trying to moisture proof the distributor, but I also think the two part system was a...

I initially wanted to keep my '48 "rabbit ear" distributor original too. I spent literally hours trying to fit eight sparkplug wires, plus the distributor wire, through the ears into the cap. I get that Ford was trying to moisture proof the distributor, but I also think the two part system was a...

My car ('48 Ford Tudor SD) ran great the first year or so that I had it, and then it began having the same issues as yours. I chased the gremlin(s) for months, installing rebuild kits, replacing this and that. Did everything I new to do. Then Joe at Joe's Antique Auto in MA gave me the number...

I wouldn't think so as long as you use an ample amount of rubber adhesive. The ones that I made for my '48 are basically inserts that fit between the frame and the outside metal edges. When the doors are closed, the running board mats are completely covered and protected from the sun and...