Recent content by Albany Tom

Thanks again. I appreciate the extra info.

I was thinking the same thing, katy. I'm going to ensure one screw is always holding that plate and perhaps use washers with a cutout (like a donut missing a bite) for shims. Thanks for replying.

That's so helpful, Randy. I totally get it now. Thanks everyone. Much appreciated.

Hi. Thanks much for responding. I don't have to replace the latches w repros. I just need to shim the existing ones out likely about 1/16" (maybe a washer) so that the door doesn't hit it. The door closes but rubs. Just loosening the screws a bit has eased the issue a bit. Pictures of the area...

Thanks midgetracer.

Can anyone tell me if the body door catches on a 1931 roadster are held on with screws into the frame, or bolts with nuts. I'd like to take one off and shim it about 1/16 or so, but I'm concerned there's a nut on the inside that will fall off and drop and I'll have to take off the panel, etc...

Hi all, I formerly had a Model A Fordor but am interested in a roadster pickup. The last few I've seen for sale indicate the top does not fold down, but instead must be unbolted and removed. Can someone let me know if that was the original design or should roadster pickups have working foldable...

I was searching the Ford Barn for how to repair the steering-wheel horn switch on a 1930-31 Model A Ford. I found a helpful blog post from 2006 on the subject and wanted to help the Ford Barn community by linking to it here. As you never know when these old blogs will be shut down, I copied...

Hi everyone. Sorry for the delay but I finally got to the car again. It turns out you were all on the right track re a bad electrical connection. The problem was the clamp on the positive battery post. (The car is 12V negative ground.) The clamp overall was pretty thin and had some rust, but the...

Steve, Will (and everyone else) I appreciate your taking the time to wade through all I wrote. I was trying things as you fine people were providing advice. You and others are right in that when I see no voltage I'm calling it a short yet there is no heat, smoke, etc. (which is good news). So...

Thanks for all those points, Farrell. Re your suggestions: - cleaned the switch and starter post - checked the switch every which way for short. all ok. Post for battery cable has 3 insulated washers between cable and the switch housing. - No rust on the mounting. I actually started this whole...

Just a note re adequate grounding and such. I think all that's OK. The car has been incredibly reliable and started every time for the last two years. This all started a few days ago when I think I let my foot off the starter too soon and heard that unusual clunk.

Thank you Joe. Per your advice, I confirmed a good current path between starter and battery. (By the way, battery positive post goes to the starter, neg to the frame (through cutoff switch), so negative ground). I took the starter switch apart and confirmed everything was electrically isolated...

Can't believe how helpful everyone is even on July 4th. I wish I could buy you all a burger and a beer. :) I just did what Joe K suggested: "try the jumper cable between the battery post and the "knob" underneath the starter switch (remove the two screws and take off the starter switch.)"...

Here's a photo showing how I've removed the starter from the circuit, and connected the starter-side battery cable directly to the wire to the junction box. In this state, I've got 12V through and all electrical is restored. So battery terms, cutoff, cables and fuse are all OK. That's why I...