Recent content by Alaska Mike

I am president of the local Ford Club, and a local antique store donated a license plate frame for us to sell at our up coming car show. I found one on E-Bay and tried to copy the picture but did not have any luck doing that. If you search on E-Bay, it is listed as "1917 - 32 American Plate...

I appreciate everyone taking the time to comment on their experiences. Last two "new" condensers made one trip around the block. I ordered two NOS Ford condensers off of E-bay, and installed one, but haven't really had a chance to try it out. I also got all the stuff rounded up to set up...

Drove my '31 Model A roadster from storage shed, 50 yards, to the shop. Started and ran fine. Tried to start a couple days later and would not start. It has a modern points and condenser set up. I put three new condensers in it before it would run on a four cylinders. I am fed up with this...

Here in Southern Iowa we have a company that strips using heat and sand in a big vat. It heats things up to about 400 degrees and injects air at the same time. When they open the doors on this thing it looks like the gates of hell with the flames, heat and rolling sand. We take things over...

I just put a pair in my Model A. They are pretty bright. Very "white". But definitely change direction when switching from high to low beam. I haven't had the opportunity to do much night driving yet, but they look good in the driveway shining on the garage door.

I keep hearing this term "period correct". I think it means some improvement made at or around a time when the car was new or at least "newer". Many seem to think that if the change is "period correct" it is ok to modify their car that way. I have decided that I am trying to drive this car on...

I have re-plated some Model T head light rings that had the "Brown" name on them. I wondered it they were an aftermarket item.

I use both, depending on the application. Both have their advantages. I don't know why someone would say that base/clear coat doesn't look right on a Model A, but I guess everyone has their opinion. Base /clear works well if you are painting two tone paint project. The clear covers...

I have a 1931 Roadster and the windshield won't stay in position when I have the top down. I ordered the "cups" as I assumed mine were worn. The information I have found says they are welded in. The stanchions are stainless, I guess. Are they really welded in?

I am president of the local Ford Club. One of our members has a business called "Quick Time" An earlier post asked about an automatic transmission in a model A, because the owner had some health issues. The folks at "Quick Time" have all the measurements for anything 1948 and newer, bell...

Loosen all the head bolts about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch and start it. Spark plug fires, the head pops up, and engine stops.

My battery charger is one of the newer ones that monitors the charge and tapers off as it reaches full charge. I then tested it with my battery tester, the kind they use at the autoparts store, and it tested bad. The new battery seemed to fix things, but only time will tell. Thanks for all...

Put the battery on a good charger overnight, and still only 5.1 volts. Battery was only 3 months old, but who knows what was up with that. Bought a new batter, and now it starts like I expected. Still a little tight from the fresh rebuild and high compression head, but much better overall...

I by-passed the battery disconnect and nothing changed. It does have high compression head. I have about 150 miles on the rebuild now. I checked the battery voltage and it was only 5.1 volts, which didn't sound good. I have the battery charger on it now to see if that helps. I really...

Thanks for the ideas! I will check the disconnect switch, and voltage. 6 to 1 high compression head. I will try those ideas, and post again. Thanks! Mike