I used a large (don't remember the size) nut coupler and tightened between the bottom flange and the flat head rivet in top flange. 1 1/2 diameter tail, heated the rivet and drove with a 3x rivet gun until set - then ground flat. I think it filled the holes and provided the necessary clinch...
My problem is questioning the value of lock washers. The "tang" of the lock washer cannot dig in until the nut loosens enough for it to spring out. In other words it is basically a flat washer until then and it is too late to effectively stop rotation. MY feelings is to torque the daylights out...
Make sure the gas tank is solid or you may have to go a tank behind the seat and an electric fuel pump. The picture in your OP looks like a peach orchard truck common here in the south peach areas back in the days.
I had a VIN inspector verify that my engine number and body number were the same and got a letter to that effect. Will this help if I change the engine with a different engine number?
I don't see how a thin (apparently) mild steel gland ring could possibly keep a heavy cast iron manifold from sagging if everything else is at it should be. IMO after a few heat cycles the gland ring would be useless and like others have stated that they would end in the muffler.
I had a cut out failure with an electronic cut out. According to NewRex theirs is the only one with enough heart sink capabilities to keep it cool and lengthen its useful life.
Yes, it is correct. I think my problem is upstream from the battery and generator. As soon as I turn the key on the amp gage sits at 0 for a second
and then goes to -15. Head lights and horn are disconnected. Can't get a good amp or voltage reading when this happens - battery showing 6.5...