Recent content by 46international

Dobie, thanks so much for your help with this. I was thinking the pull coil would stay energised longer, thanks for setting me straight.

I hear that they stopped using the switch at the end of the shift rod sometime in the early '50's it seems to me that this switch would solve this "problem" of the coil being energised while the cable is pulled. So either the "pull coil" is switched off by the limited travel the plunger has with...

so are you saying that the "pull coil" cuts out so soon that it may not be energised when the shift rod is blocking the travel of the plunger? I guess first of all I should ask if I'm correct in my thought that when the shift rod is moved to the rear by pulling the cable, the plunger cannot...

This sounds like solid advice but what happens when you pull the cable out? it looks like when you pull the cable out the fat part of the "shift rod" will not let the "block" move into the ring. This looks like it would keep the solenoid from full travel outward so it cannot activate the switch...

Thanks Tim when I get to that point I'll give them a call.

Karl, unfortunately the motor that needed the oil tube is damaged beyond repair but that was my plan if I got that far.

Thanks for this info, I have seen many places sell 0.060 over pistons but only Egge sells anything larger and I think they went from 0.060 then skipped to .125 Is there an 0.080 out there?

Thanks for all the positive comments on this project, but I have to report that the block is cracked. One of the lifter bores cracked while knocking out the lifter. But, all is well. I got two flathead motors, one with a transmission for free and at least one looks ok. The good one was bored...

Just a little update, I got the crank and all the pistons out. Working on the lifters now I think only two will move. I have cut the cam out so there is only the journals left. I was thinking of pressure testing the block if I can get the rest of the parts out with obvious damage. My plan is...

Thanks the links! Well, these threads answer my questions about the tube. I have a lathe so I should be able to make a new one if I get that far with this block.

I'm sure everyone knows who Mart is, he has a video of him knocking out pistons on a stuck flathead. He just goes in from the bottom with a punch and breaks off the piston head, then the rest comes out easy, I think mine are more rusty than his. But I have hope.

I wish I had a plasma cutter but I think I only have two more valve heads to go and a lot of the stems have been breaking when hit with a hammer/punch so that part is going good. At least so far. How common is it to have the pal nuts on the rods? This motor still has them and a fiber cam gear...

cutting a rod or two would make it a lot easier but I would like to save the rods if I can. I think I will add some oil down on the bottom of the pistons today and let it sit a while. I hope I can drive out the couple pistons that are at the top of the bore.

Thanks for all the ideas on this, I have been working on the valves this morning and glad to say it's going pretty good so far. They don't cut very good with a torch, it's more like melting stainless or cast iron but I got more than half of them out. I decided to take a little break on the...

I picked up a stuck 8BA motor the other week and I'm in the process of taking it apart and seeing what I got. First the pistons are stuck real good, there may be one or two that will come out easy but most are stuck. I think I can deal with that part, the real problem is the valves, lifters and...