Recent content by 28Danby

I don't have FaceTime, Snapwhatever or the TikyTocky Anyways Jim. I have my car at TDC, lever up, point at 0.020, rotor gap at 0.025, plugs at 0.035 and my rotor lines up here as per the pics. I attached a short clip of the car running. It looks like there are intermittent sparks from the...

I always use a test light as well. I used to use just the nu-rex wrench to time it, but found it too inconsistent. AlsoI mentioned to Jim above that I have found a bunch of points that have different lenth arms (rubbing block to centre of contact point). I tried a few different condensors...

So I finally got my parts. I machined the manifolds together as well as the backside of the ears where the belveled washers sit. Whole manifold is within 0.004" thru the length of it. It was bang on but painted it with ceramic header paint and baked it afterwards. New copper gaskets installed...

Good idea. Tomorrow nights job

The lower plate (modern) is fine. I double checked the connections and made sure they weren't shorting out. The ignition cable into the distributor base seems to be OK. No pencil filter in the tank. I'm seem to be getting lots of fuel thru the line to the carb. Next step will be pulling...

Points gap is good. Swapped out the condensor. Changed the carb to a spare. Still spitting and sputtering. Anytime I put throttle on it, it sounds like it's being choked out. I took a video, but can't find a way to upload

Alright, she's been a while. After a bit of a hiatus, I finally got back to working on the my 28'. I swapped out to a smaller water pump that flows slower and am running a 25 percent glycol/water with some water wetter. My overheating seems to be pretty well nipped in the bud. I did find...

Not sure how many of you have dealt with Gene Franklin from Kitchener Ontario, otherwise known as "Dixie", but I heard from his son that he passed early this week. He and his son Glenn have helped me with my restoration of my 28 Tudor through the years and been my main supplier for parts for...

I did it a few winters ago. I pulled the entire cowl/tank from the body. Gave me the ability to re-seal the tank while I was at it. Separated the firewall and tank from the cowl while on the bench. I was able to wire wheel/blast/paint everything and installed new cowl panels and front...

It all pointed to a bad head gasket around the #1 cylinder. I pulled the head and there was some indication of a little coolant in the cylinder. Not enough to show in the oil or exhaust, but enough to leak combustion gases into the water neck giving me a (false) higher temp reading as that is...

It’s been a while since I’ve been on here as life happens, but an update to my overheating problem that I thought was timing. After many trials and tribulations it came down to a head gasket/torque problem. Initially, I re-torqued as per specs to 55f/lbs after warming to operating temp. Now...

I’m having the same problem. Engine is a fresh rebuild, rad was professionally flushed by a reputable shop, timing is bang on using a light (TDC, light just turns on when advanced 1 notch), temp gauge installed and new water pump and I was getting into the 210 degree mark. Flushed the block and...

Looking for some clarification or insight. I know there are lots of threads started on timing but I am still having some issues. The engine is recently rebuilt, rad flushed professionally and rebuilt distributor. New points, condenser and coil. Point gap is 0.020 and rotor to plugs is 0.025”...

I have a spare tube and pump under the rear seat along with irons, i live in mennonite county and the horses throw nails all the time. 2L bottle of water for the rad if need be, points and condensers (with nurex wrench), coil, bulbs and water pump packing and gasket with tools. Basic tool kit...

I've had a similar problem. Turned out the diaphram was dickered. Rebuilt the horn, was cheap and easy to do and sounds great.