Zenith or TillotsonCarb???

You can probably touch the chips up with a brush or Qtip just enough to fill the chips. When the touch up dries a day or two you can gently block sand the touch up build up with very fine sand paper and then coumpound the spots and they won't be noticable.

The main thing that I see that I would change is the four blade fan. The fan that you have appears to be a model 46 truck fan that was used on 1933 through 41 four cylinder trucks. This fan was sold by Ford dealers for a replacement for the model A fan after the original two blade prop fans were discontinued . The old four blade fans have less pitch and don't move as much air as the original fan. Besides not moving as much air, most of these fans are old and stressed in the revit area and are prone to slinging a blade. I've had two of that type sling a blade, the last one damaged the hood and radiator on my AA truck. I recommend the new aluminum balanced repro fan that Snyder sells, It looks very close to the original fan. Some will pick the copper fuel line but I've never had a problem with a copper fuel line. We use to put a loop in the copper lines but it didn't look original.
 
Look in the picture at the top blade of the fan. Looks like powdered rust on my screen. If it is that means that the two pieces of steel that are riveted together are loose.
Did the rust wipe right off? If it did that's bad news.
 
John S said:
Look in the picture at the top blade of the fan. Looks like powdered rust on my screen. If it is that means that the two pieces of steel that are riveted together are loose.
Did the rust wipe right off? If it did that's bad news.
Click to expand...

Yes, wiped right off.
 
sorry to hear about the chip, similar to what purdy mentioned i use a fine point artist brush from the craft store and fill the chip little by little letting each coat dry then buff it out. as the others said get rid of the fan and buy the 2 blade aluminum. looks like a little exhaust leak at the pipe to manifold joint and something looks wrong with the choke rod spring. did someone paint the firewall with everything still attached? or is that just the way the pic looks.
the original fuel line is steel and bent prettier
 
John S said:
Look in the picture at the top blade of the fan. Looks like powdered rust on my screen. If it is that means that the two pieces of steel that are riveted together are loose.
Did the rust wipe right off? If it did that's bad news.
Click to expand...

Purdy Swoft said:
You can probably touch the chips up with a brush or Qtip just enough to fill the chips. When the touch up dries a day or two you can gently block sand the touch up build up with very fine sand paper and then coumpound the spots and they won't be noticable.

The main thing that I see that I would change is the four blade fan. The fan that you have appears to be a model 46 truck fan that was used on 1933 through 41 four cylinder trucks. This fan was sold by Ford dealers for a replacement for the model A fan after the original two blade prop fans were discontinued . The old four blade fans have less pitch and don't move as much air as the original fan. Besides not moving as much air, most of these fans are old and stressed in the revit area and are prone to slinging a blade. I've had two of that type sling a blade, the last one damaged the hood and radiator on my AA truck. I recommend the new aluminum balanced repro fan that Snyder sells, It looks very close to the original fan. Some will pick the copper fuel line but I've never had a problem with a copper fuel line. We use to put a loop in the copper lines but it didn't look original.
Click to expand...

O'Boy!!!!!!!!!!! I think I'll head to me cot. Wake up with a smile and a new day. :D If it has to be done, let's get it done right.

Oh well......where to start!!!!!!
 
31 Model A said:
Yes, wiped right off.
Click to expand...


If it was mine I would do like Purdy said and get one of the repro 2 blade fans from one of the vendors. I have them on my cars and they work fine.
Another fan guys around here run is the 6 blade plastic fan. They move a little more air but I don't like how they look.
 
Mitch//pa said:
sorry to hear about the chip, similar to what purdy mentioned i use a fine point artist brush from the craft store and fill the chip little by little letting each coat dry then buff it out. as the others said get rid of the fan and buy the 2 blade aluminum. looks like a little exhaust leak at the pipe to manifold joint and something looks wrong with the choke rod spring. did someone paint the firewall with everything still attached? or is that just the way the pic looks.
Click to expand...

Yip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! they painted away!!!!! I guess the radiator will have to be pulled to change the fan, right????
 
You can remove the radiator, or you might try the trick of unbuttoning the two upper tie rods, pulling the upper hose off the water connections, and tilting all forward. The hood can stay if you keep the two rear latch-hooks connected.

But please say yes to a new aluminum fan.

Joe K
 
Joe K said:
You can remove the radiator, or you might try the trick of unbuttoning the two upper tie rods, pulling the upper hose off the water connections, and tilting all forward. The hood can stay if you keep the two rear latch-hooks connected.

But please say yes to a new aluminum fan.

Joe K
Click to expand...

I'm all for having a proper fan. I'll get one ordered tomorrow.
 
$47.95 plus shipping.................I can do that.

Good night all, it's been a very informative night.................
 
The Tillotson is a very good carburetor, although not original. If it is running well, I would not hurry to replace the carb. Put that on a "to do" list for the future. ("Hurry" may have a different meaning to others--I've had my Tilly on the coupe for 45 years, and the Zenith is still on my "to do" list.) I would take the filter attachment off altogether. It's not needed, and it may cause problems as outlined above.

Purdy mentioned the copper gas line. Opinions differ on that. However, I notice you also have a copper fitting in the windshield vacuum line with the wolf whistle attached. I have had a similar fitting break off, coming off the Parkway down the mountain after dark in the rain. Easy to bypass, but I sure did get wet! Admittedly, I had bored out the inside diameter of the copper fitting to get more vacuum on the wolf whistle. I learn many things the hard way.

Looks like you have a nice Model A. Congratulations, and welcome.

W. Michael
 
we will put a list together for things you need to order this way youll save shipping getting it all at once. we like spending other peoples money:D
go have a beer or 3
 
Too bad someone took the lazy man's way to paint the firewall. It would have only taken minutes to remove the terminal box and wires when they sprayed the firewall. You can still remove them and strip the paint off. This kind of work makes me wonder about all the important mechanical things, such as a proper engine build and brake work.
 
As for replacing the fan, you won't necessarilly have to remove the radiator. After all of the problems and close calls that I've had with the old four blade fans , I consider them worthless and don't take any pains when I remove them. If you carefully break two of the blades off, you can disconnect the upper hose and brace rods and loosen and tilt the radiator foward enough to remove the pump and fan . With the pump and fan removed as a unit, temoval of the old fan will be easier . Most vendors sell a fan knock off tool. A used head nut and head or man\ifold stud makes a good knock off tool. The head nut has the same threads as the water pump shaft. Remove the cotter key and fan nut , screw the head nut part way on the water pump shaft, then screw the old head or manifild stud into the head nut untill it bottoms on the pump shaft. With the pump and fan in your lap, strike the stud with a hammer and the fan should back off the pump shaft. This is the poor mans fan knock off tool and it works well.
 
i like to use the fake water pump studs /bolts it makes servicing easier and use sealer on the threads of the top one forget which side as its not a blind hole into the head
 
I agree with W.Michael . If the Tillie is running good there is no need to replace it untill you have to . Many years ago it got to where good Zenith parts were hard to find. J.C. Whitney sold new Tillotson model X carbs for as low as $12.95 in the late sixties. I bought two of them and they ran good in to the 80s. After the Tillies warped, I never could get them to run right again, no matter what I did. In the mean time I had collected a few used Zenith carbs found in the Hemmings motor news. I found some good parts, learned how to fix them and have run Zenith carbs since. Most of the model A parts vendors sells the video, Carburetors and carbohydrates and it is worth every penny and more. After watching Fred Carelton rebuild a rusty Zenith carb in this video it will make a Zenith expert out of you.

Oh yes, I like your model A and I wasn't trying to nit pick. You asked and I was just trying to give helpfull tips.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
I agree with W.Michael . If the Tillie is running good there is no need to replace it untill you have to . Many years ago it got to where good Zenith parts were hard to find. J.C. Whitney sold new Tillotson model X carbs for as low as $12.95 in the late sixties. I bought two of them and they ran good in to the 80s. After the Tillies warped, I never could get them to run right again, no matter what I did. In the mean time I had collected a few used Zenith carbs found in the Hemmings motor news. I found some good parts, learned how to fix them and have run Zenith carbs since. Most of the model A parts vendors sells the video, Carburetors and carbohydrates and it is worth every penny and more. After watching Fred Carelton rebuild a rusty Zenith carb in this video it will make a Zenith expert out of you.

Oh yes, I like your model A and I wasn't trying to nit pick. You asked and I was just trying to give helpfull tips.
Click to expand...


It seems to operate OK except drips come from here and there. after I shut it off.
 
I have a old Nov-Dec 1964 MARC News with a article on Henry Fords 29 Coupe says we always ran a Tilly Carb, also drove his 29 thru 42 which was his first v8!
 
take your time,, breathe,, and do a little at a time.. its all minor things were talking about here
you asked alot of questions so you got alot of answers..
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top