New guy with an old truck.

Thanks for the welcome guys. I had to keep it short earlier because I was on my phone, and at work. They don't aggressively go after us about using them, but better safe than sorry. So... I am VERY interested in this T170 thing! What years and vehicles were they used in? It bolts up to the stock bellhousing, or is an adaptor needed?

Well, The right fender came of this evening, and it seems to be black or a very dark blue inside? I am really not sure what color this thing was now. It may require taking off a body part that has never been removed, like door hinges, etc. All of the Vin tags have been removed as well, so if I can't find a number on the right frame rail, not sure what the next avenue is.

I have access to a nine inch out of a 5300 pound Anahiem luxury E-150, for what it's worth. Yeah I know it's probably too wide, but I know a guy who does that kind of work. If the rear axle works, I may just leave it for now.

Two things I have found through the disassembly process. The radiator support is toast, and the front frame crossmember has a few rust holes in it. I may have the right gauge steel laying around for the crossmember, but for the support I guess I will end up on ebay. There are a couple of them on there right now, at just over what I want to pay. I guess I should just suck it up and get one. The whole front end seems to be bolted to it in some shape or form. Before I started working on it, you could tell it was leaning a little towards the passengers side. You could pick the front end up up an inch or two, by grabbing the headlight eyebrows. As seen in this picture. You could tell something wasn't quite right.

DSCN0197_zps58aae2e0.jpg
 
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Welcome and you have a great project - just stay within what your pockets can afford (worst thing in the world is to take this thing all apart with grand ideas and then you run out of money). These things take patience and you have to do your homework - come up with a simple plan to get this baby on the road safely and drive it ... good luck and keep us posted!
 
I got it as a long term project, with most of the work being done by me. I am only out parts and supplies mostly. I can repair a lot of problems on my own.

The wiring is shot. Crumbles if you try to move it so that is a must. 12V conversion might be unavoidable and convenient. It opens a lot of opportunities for things like a CD player, that I can make an under dash mount for. I don't want to over modernize it of course.
 
The last pic that you posted shows me that your beauty has been repainted at least once. The stock grille would have been Tucson Tan in '48 and argent (a silver / aluminium color in my avatar) in '49 & '50. I'm not sure that removing a door hinge will give you a better look as many of the assembly plants tack welded the hinges - presumably before paint.

The VIN numbers on the 48-50's didn't carry any coding for paint color. If there is any surviving factory coding on the firewall - either stamped or painted - just below the cowl vent, you may be able to identify additional build details.

Your earlier look at the underside of the fender would seem to have shown you the original color. I'm sticking with Sheridan blue.
 
FordCustom said:
Thanks for the welcome guys. I had to keep it short earlier because I was on my phone, and at work. They don't aggressively go after us about using them, but better safe than sorry. So... I am VERY interested in this T170 thing! What years and vehicles were they used in? It bolts up to the stock bellhousing, or is an adaptor needed?

Well, The right fender came of this evening, and it seems to be black or a very dark blue inside? I am really not sure what color this thing was now. It may require taking off a body part that has never been removed, like door hinges, etc. All of the Vin tags have been removed as well, so if I can't find a number on the right frame rail, not sure what the next avenue is.

I have access to a nine inch out of a 5300 pound Anahiem luxury E-150, for what it's worth. Yeah I know it's probably too wide, but I know a guy who does that kind of work. If the rear axle works, I may just leave it for now.

Two things I have found through the disassembly process. The radiator support is toast, and the front frame crossmember has a few rust holes in it. I may have the right gauge steel laying around for the crossmember, but for the support I guess I will end up on ebay. There are a couple of them on there right now, at just over what I want to pay. I guess I should just suck it up and get one. The whole front end seems to be bolted to it in some shape or form. Before I started working on it, you could tell it was leaning a little towards the passengers side. You could pick the front end up up an inch or two, by grabbing the headlight eyebrows. As seen in this picture. You could tell something wasn't quite right.

DSCN0197_zps58aae2e0.jpg
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Hi not sure about the axle length on the E-150 but any late 60s and 70s f-100 9" rear will bolt under your truck with only minor tweaking to the spring pads. Most 48-52 f 1 up here in Canada had black fenders and the body was what ever the factory painted it Grey blue red etc.
 
I hate 9" rear ends, too heave. Makes you truck ride like a truck. unless your gona use it as a truck, I'd rethink that. However if you plan on running a 500 hp Flathead, go for it.
 
It certainly didn't get strained a whole bunch on the E150. It had a 302 in that heavy brick of a vehicle. It went zero to sixty in 5 minutes. I am not sure what they were thinking back then...
 
Well... took the hood off this evening with some help from a friend. Thankfully it was the FIRST bolts I have run into that weren't rusted solid. They came right out. And behind the hinge mounts, more dark blue! So Sheridan blue it is I guess.

And as a side note... The air ratchet I bought 7-8 years ago is proving to be a major asset. Why endlessly hold a wrench, and turn a socket when it stays tight all. the. way. to. the. end. Make sure it's seated, and squeeze the lever. It's as easy as that.
 
You may be able to re-gear the stock rear axle. I have heard conflicting reports on using new Dana 44 parts in the Dana 41 axle. It is something worth looking into though.
 
I have been told from several sources that the original axle is a dud, weak, etc. I've also never had a vehicle with the famed 9 inch rear. I don't mind if it rides like a truck, since that's what it is?:D
 
I also like that blue.I would be interested in that rear end if you decide
to go to a 9 or 8 inch.I believe the 3spd od comes in early 80's trucks.
 
I recommend an 8" rearend, mind you not 8.8 but an 8 that looks just like a 9. They come in a width that you will not have to modify. About the only 9" you can find that are not too wide are from hi-po Mustangs, Mavericks and '57 Fords. Sometimes on an 8" you do not even need to cut off the spring pads but can massage them to fit on your existing springs. You might need wedges to adjust the pinion angle. An 8" will handle anything a flathead can put out.
 
36tbird said:
I recommend an 8" rearend, mind you not 8.8 but an 8 that looks just like a 9. They come in a width that you will not have to modify. About the only 9" you can find that are not too wide are from hi-po Mustangs, Mavericks and '57 Fords. Sometimes on an 8" you do not even need to cut off the spring pads but can massage them to fit on your existing springs. You might need wedges to adjust the pinion angle. An 8" will handle anything a flathead can put out.
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The 9" truck rear has the width,, the wheel bolt pattern and lots of gear choices ??
 
1972 and older 9 inch axles are almost a bolt in to the F-1. They are simply heavier and not stock looking. The 9 inch housing is larger in diameter than the Dana 41 so your have to replace the u-bolts and bottom plate holding the axle in. The shock mounts are on the Dana 41 and are not on the 9 inch. Also, Dana 44s are still used in Jeeps. I doubt your flathead will break it.
 
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