Trouble with stoplight switch

Daves55Sedan

Daves55Sedan

Well-known member
I have been replacing stoplight switches over and over again.
People keep telling me my brake lights don't work. If I press on the pedal very hard, the lights DO light up, but normally it does not take that much pressure to stop, so probably most of the time, the lights are not coming on.
Could this be caused by brake shoes un-evenly adjusted, or having the rear shoes way out of adjustment?
Could it be because I am using silicone brake fluid?
Are these replacement switches defective?
 
Even when new in the 50's, the hydraulic brake light switches were only good for about 4 years. About a couple years life if the car isn't a daily driver. In 1963, my 1957 Ford was on its second brake light switch, and the motor hardly ever got cooled off. This is about the worst case scenario. Then one hears about the brake light switch that is still working after 20 years use.
 
I have changed to a push switch from a Dodge pickup mounted on a home made bracket bolted to the inside of the master cylinder stud. It seems to last about four times longer.
Find a parts seller who will allow you to look at pictures in an old book to find one. I never recorded a part number. The correct way to do this would be to wire brakes lights through a relay, with a third mounted at the top of the back window.
 
It has been alleged that the silicone fluid is doing it. Some have used a hydraulic switch from a Harley Davidson motorcycle because they are made for silicone.

I, like most others using silicone, have rigged some sort of mount for a mechanical switch.
 
A mechanical switch would be a good fix. Go to your local NAPA store and ask to look at the Echlin buyers guide. Look at the section for switches with a letter prefix of, SL. These are all stoplight switches. The buyers guide has pictures of each switch. It shouldn't be too hard to make a bracket and mount a switch on the pedal linkage.
 
You might look for a low pressure brake light switch. I got one last year on that "E" site. So far, still seems to work fine but hasn't been on very long.
 
I had same trouble with stock brake lite switch on my F-1. I bought a Harley Davidson switch and it has worked great for three years. Takes very little pedal pressure. No mod's required!
 
I have 2 cars that have the dot 5 silicone fluid, had the same problem with both, changed to mechanical switch, end of trouble. good luck. Paul
 
In their latest catalog,Mac's has a mechanical switch.I put one on my 56 and it works like a charm.Easy install.
 
Stopped at NAPA after work. He pulled out the Echlin book and all the stoplight switches they had in stock. Any of those I could have used were not in stock. I will reserve NAPA as a last resort
 
Paul H said:
In their latest catalog,Mac's has a mechanical switch.I put one on my 56 and it works like a charm.Easy install.
Click to expand...

Paul, I am slightly familiar with MAC's. Ordered some stuff online once before. Can you give me their part number for the switch so I can look it up on their website???
 
Daves55Sedan said:
Stopped at NAPA after work. He pulled out the Echlin book and all the stoplight switches they had in stock. Any of those I could have used were not in stock. I will reserve NAPA as a last resort
Click to expand...

Dave, did the counterman at the NAPA store offer to order a switch for you? If their warehouse had it in stock, they could have it the next day.
 
Daves55Sedan said:
Paul, I am slightly familiar with MAC's. Ordered some stuff online once before. Can you give me their part number for the switch so I can look it up on their website???
Click to expand...
Dave..........Here is Macs part number for their mechanical brake light switch.
13480-UNIV
 
Y-blockhead, that switch you suggest which has the contacts CLOSE when the pushbutton is released is exactly what I am after. That way, the lights will come on as soon as you begin to push the brake pedal.
Paul, thanks for looking it up. I will look at it on Macs website.
This thing is going to be remedied one way or the other.
 
JeffB2 Had to register on HAMB to see what you were trying to show me. Never thought I would go there since it is all hot rodders. Small world, though. I saw a few other folks who frequent fordbarn and fordsix posting on HAMB.
Looks like a great arrangement. ctfortner had a couple of better photos of his installation but its exactly like what you did. I guess I am way behind the times. My car still had its original stoplight switch in it till I converted to silicone fluid. That was back in '92. After that, the old switch only lasted a week. That original switch was much larger than the replacement switches they sell now. I probably won't go that route now but its something to fall back on later.
I ordered the lever action switch PaulH suggested from MACs. I also noticed they sell a "low pressure" switch that is supposed to be silicone fluid compatible. I ordered it also. It replaces the switch on the master cylinder, so I am going to install it and see if it lasts. I will keep the lever action switch on hand if the low press switch fails. Thanks everyone for suggesting so many options.
 
I hope you will join our 1952-59 Ford Group many of the folks have stayed stock under the hood so plenty of information to share.
 

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64 was the last year on a Ford for a hydraulic switch. On my 64, I used a mechanical switch like the ones above (Jeff and Master) It works terrific!!! Underside looks just like the earlier cars.

I hooked it up to the accessory pole of the ignition switch. Then you have to splice the other wire into the stop light wire coming off the turn signal switch (the closest wire near the mech. switch). You have to take off the wires on the hydraulic switch because you get feedback, but can use the hydraulic switch as a backup (you have to take the wire off the mechanical switch for the same reason) if the mech. switch goes out..

Works great, and you can adjust it so the slightest movement of the brake pedal turns on the lights.

The downside to this wiring set up is the cars needs to have the key in the accessory or run position for the light to go on.

It can be power wired differently so the lights go on all the time and would prevent the feedback.
 
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