Yes, they are still out there!!!

As always, Don P. was there to take photos, help take motor out and look at parts for problems, then for solutions to correct. As Don was leaving yesterday I started putting up parts, picked up the little transmission off table and moved to garage. I set the transmission down gently on metal drip pan on floor, turned around and heard some little metal sounds. Looked at rear of the 34 transmission and the rear main shaft bearing race was laying broke on drip pan and shaft had slid back a couple of inches. The metal looked like broke glass, I guess the motor mount was holding the bearing in place, no slop in bearing, just broke and fell out?? I will take photo of bearing later, ordered new parts for transmission and clutch.
 
I did have a bearing break a little bit like that, once, but the output shaft had snapped. I don't know what may have happened to yours, it may have had some sort of an impact an some time, but I can't think how.

Mart.
 
Mart, understand, bearing was fine, the metal plate on front of motor mount must have held bearing in place. All individual bearings look good, no discolor, definitly did not lack lube. I am hoping the vibration I picked up was the clutch (really do not see how one little rivet could make it feel like a tire out of balance). Also, do not see the bearing causing the vibration. Will have to put back together and check. I think I will go back to garage and check to see if the drive shaft is tight "centered" in torque tube, thanks Bruce
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Red paint around the part of motor mount and gasket that mates up to transmission, plate would have held bearing from falling apart "for a while" just dodged another bullet??
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What I am thinking Bruce is that your bearing has had a impact from the U joint and in turn from the rear axle . drive shaft to long, or spring causing it to work backwards and forward ,??
 
Bruce,
When I saw the photos in your first post back in Feb. I was happy for you but
a touch jealous. I thought it would be a nice driver as is. Just goes to show how
many hidden problems there can be in a very good looking car. You have earned
every bit of that car.
Hope all goes well from now on.
Brian
 
If the early closed trannies are at all like the open drives, I'd bet the retainer (motor mount) came loose and was hammering on the exposed part of the bearing race. It would take tremendous force to crack a race like that!
 
Ross, that is an idea!! I did see circular scratch marks in the universal cover that attaches to the transmission, wonder if the motor mount was loose (not to frame, but in molded rubber ) in the rubber? I did not see this, but it is a possibility, what would make marks in the universal cover?? Universal seems good, I am looking for a cause, so I can find the cure. Let me know what you think, will go take a couple of photos later, thanks Bruce
( Ross, going to install a 39 transmission gear set in a early case and restore the original transmission and put on shelf until I have original motor/trans for back up) Have looked/read that we cannot move the transmission tower, that is only bad part.
 
I meant the 6 bolts that hold the bearing retainer to the rear of the trans case were loose. Probably caused a big leak and someone subsequently tightened the bolts up, thinking no damage had been done. Are those bolts drilled for safety wire on yours?
 
Ross, could have happen that way, can not remember taking wire off of bolts, do not think so, but like you said they were tight. Would have happened in the late 70's or early 80's and I inherited the problem. The fly wheel has safety wire, I will check the 6 bolts for holes and install if they are drilled, thanks Bruce
 
Disassemble and clean the transmission and inspect for other damage especially the syncro hub. How did it shift into 2nd gear, when you drove the car? Smooth and without any grinding? How about the down shift from 3 to 2?
 
Shifted fine, smooth and without grinding, best feeling clutch I had, I did fine out that on a down hill that it would pop out of 2ND gear, you could hold it in second, no problem on the up shift in any gear. The transmission was clean, clean, no sludge or metal looking oil, 3 to 2 was fine, thanks Bruce
 
If the main shaft is supported in the input shaft by individual needles, you'll have to take it apart to make sure none fell out when the main shaft slid back.
 
Ross, as Don P. and I took 34 transmission apart today we did check the separation and looked to make sure bearings were intact.
Next we cleaned up the 39 transmission and got ready to paint. I need some parts, ordered rear bearing for 34 transmission and bushing for the 39 later case for clutch throw out bearing cross shaft. NOW I have a question, it is a shifter handle question, is the end of shifter handle to have a perfect round end or does it have flat spot on it??
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Bruce, I don't personally have a top-shift trans, but my recollection from others I helped with is that the do have two flat sides, the dimension across them matches the fork selector width. But I hope someone with more experience will confirm!!
 
Replace the clutch disc, pilot bearing and throw bearing, have found one problem that others now tell me they also had. In the 1934 models they made two different clutch adjustment rods, one that is 3 1/2" long and one that is 4 11/16" long, mine for some reason was the 3 1/2" clutch rod. (wrong for this car ) I have ordered the longer one, this should give me more adjustment and allow more of rod to be in the clevis that attaches to the clutch shaft arm on transmission. The clutch adjustment rod had always been at the max. sense I have owned, until the problem with a rivet falling between disc and pressure plate I had not tried to correct problem. This week I installed the engine and transmission and I am waiting for the new 7/16" clutch adjustment rod that is 4 11/16".
 
Mart, do you have information that says the short one was for the 4 cylinders? I could not find the exact reason that two rods exist. I did not know if a pedal design change was reason or what, let me know if you find something.
 
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