Shocks: Necessity or luxury?

I have rear shocks on mine now. Do they need to be oiled or have some kind of fluid in them? I'm new to this so excuse me if that's a stupid question.
 
sconnors said:
I have rear shocks on mine now. Do they need to be oiled or have some kind of fluid in them? I'm new to this so excuse me if that's a stupid question.
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It depends on the shocks, as some aren't refillable. If you have the original shocks or Bill Sipes, then they are refillable, and should be checked once in a while.
 
On my 32 B, I used MGB rear shocks, and added the ball to the lever. They are excellent shocks, rebuildable, and affordable... Plus, the mounting holes line up perfectly on a 32.
Maybe something to consider for a Model A
 
I'm helping a guy with his model 1929 Model A Tudor Sedan. He currently doesnt have shocks on the car. He has the shocks but they need rebuilt. Is it better to have the shocks on the car even if they need rebuilt than to have no shocks on at all? Thanks.
 
Kevin in NJ said:
The fact is if you have a tight car with good springs then the car will not be safe to drive over 25 MPH without shocks. The car will start horrible bouncing and create a scary few moments as you get the speed down.

I do know worn out springs that are not properly lubricated between the leaves do not bounce much. Just look at the cars that owners will not drive over 45 MPH with no shocks. The front spring is down, you can not see it behind the front splash apron. They sometimes have the orange rust dust between the leaves.

On the other hand, once the shocks are on the car handles nice even up over 60 MPH. The Model A is a pretty well behaved car.
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why in the world would anyone drive a model A ford 60 miles an hour
 
I've been looking at the shock issue for a long time. I bought my 31 Tudor without shocks. Not realizing their importance. Truth is I just assumed they were an option of the day. (I have learned so much by browsing this forum) I would like to put originals on mine but I'm on a budget and just don't think I can swing $8-1,200.00 for a complete set. I would love to have a set made by Bill but I just can't spend that much. What I've found so far is a number of kits that either require you to drill a hole in the front axle or rear cross member. Snyder's has a kit that clamps on the front axle but drills the rear cross member. Pete and Jakes has a kit that mounts the rear using the rear bumper mount holes and drills the axle. Has anyone encountered problems with these? Although I have no problem using some modern technologies on my 31 Tudor, I do have problems drilling holes in it. I though about Kahuna's idea with MGB shocks but have questions on them. MGB's are lighter than an A. Would they be sturdy enough? Cost for 4 rebuilt ones would be around $400.00 plus fabrication for the ball. In researching this style I've found that they sell conversion kits for them as well. So I'm assuming that MGB owners are having troubles with them as well. At this point I'm looking at the kit from Snyder's and perhaps fabricating a rear mount like Pete & Jakes.
 
I do not have first hand experience, because my car came to me with existing, original-type but functioning Houdaille shocks, but I have heard good things about the Ken Davis shocks kit (http://www.kendavismodela.com) designed specifically for Model A use, and they cost about $250 for a set of 4. Ken Davis shocks are tube-type and not "correct" for judging, but fine if your car is a driver. If money is not object, I recommend the correct and quality made Bill Stipe "Houdaille" shocks; they are reknowned to be the best, correct, fully-adjustable, refillable, and beautifully machined.
 
jkeesey said:
They drive beautifully without shocks, just occasionally into ditches and oncoming traffic.
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Without question. When you say no shocks, do you really mean no shocks or just worn shocks.

If you doubt that your car needs them, if disconnect the arms or do it now. Rock your car back and forth. It takes little effort to push it to the point where the end part of the cross members are touching the spring.

Multiply this at speed and with weight and inertia. You get the picture.

Your nice car won't look so nice any more.
 
What about new friction shocks? Any experience with these? No one mentioned them, so I fear I'm going to get lit up for even suggesting them. So let's just say I'm posting this question for a friend;)
 
Banky said:
What about new friction shocks? Any experience with these? No one mentioned them, so I fear I'm going to get lit up for even suggesting them. So let's just say I'm posting this question for a friend;)
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tell your friend a lot of guys run them :D
 
I must say that i too, thought shocks were an option since my Huckster has none. And it handles just fine without them. No bouncing out of control, chuck hole tossing front end action like i'm reading here. No flex at all, turns just fine, stops as expected. The rear takes bumps very hard but the only damage i get is in my backside. You guys really had me going last night as i researched these horror stories. MAFCA member has gone 110K miles and ten years driving without shocks.
 
fritz, driving without shocks is also one of the leading factors in the illusive cracked front crssmember.
 
My Tudor handles fine with no shocks. I just feel better about having some on it. I think I'm going to go with the Ken Davis shocks. They seem to be cost effective and have good revues. Still not crazy about drilling holes in the car. As much as I would like to have some from Bill Stipe, I just can't spend that much.
 
sidhartha said:
My Tudor handles fine with no shocks. I just feel better about having some on it. I think I'm going to go with the Ken Davis shocks. They seem to be cost effective and have good revues. Still not crazy about drilling holes in the car. As much as I would like to have some from Bill Stipe, I just can't spend that much.
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Ken Davis shocks are great. Don't require any drilling for the rears, and on the fronts if you don't want to drill the one hole (each side), one friend just welded the bracket on, another made a clamp. I just opted to drill the hole.
 
Drilling a hole in the axle has been a concern. Mostly that it will weaken it. The bolt on mounts on the rear is a definate selling point for me. I want to be able to make all original in the future if I choose.
 
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