How do I stop leak in fuel line?

I'm with Bill 100%. Also anyone that says to use thread sealer of any kind whether its pipe dope or tape on a compression type fitting scares me. Compression fittings whether a flare or a ferrule do not need any sealer and the sealer will compromise the connection. Same goes for the machined mating surfaces of a union.
 
So tube your not using any gaskets on your engine? Just fun'in ya. I usually put teflon on the last few thread out of habit. Probably does nothing to seal the connection and I definitely don't want it being the only thing keeping the connection from leaking...
 
Tinker said:
So tube your not using any gaskets on your engine? Just fun'in ya. I usually put teflon on the last few thread out of habit. Probably does nothing to seal the connection and I definitely don't want it being the only thing keeping the connection from leaking...
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Depends, I can see putting pipe dope on the threads to lubricate them, tape I'm iffy about on fuel lines including gasoline and natural gas as it some how finds its way to a place you don't want it.

Same goes pipe unions, I'll put some dope on the threads to lubricate the nut so I can get it tighter easier.

But never, never on the sealing surfaces of something like a furrell.
 

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Wow, poor Texas Tom just ask a simple question and look what happened. Bill is right. Just slide the round ferrels on, install the line where it goes but dont push it to deep, then tighten with a tubing wrench or line wrench which is the proper name, nice and snug and you should be in bisssss. If it weeps, just snug a little more. No teflon tape needed.
 
Pardone me, but you will get no help at ahardware store or a big box like HD or Lowes. They dont even carry what you have.Theres only 1 guy in the country making correct ford fittings and ferrels and thats Jerry Grayson on here,contact him. ken ct.
 
Yes one and the same,i couldn't believe someone in this hobby didn't know what a tubing wrench was.lol lol ken ct.
 
Probably when you first tried to tighten up the Tube Nut, the steel line was extended to far in the Carb and Filter, bottoming out the Tube. Not allowing the Tube Nut to Compress the Ferrell on the line completely, only half way crimped.

File off about or grind off about 1/8 to 3/16 of the Tube before the Ferrell, use a awl to make sure the line doesn't have a Burr in the center, and Re-tightened again.
Their is No way that Tape or Sealer will stop a Ferrell on Tube Compression Fitting from Leaking.
 
Jazzjr said:
Their is No way that Tape or Sealer will stop a Ferrell on Tube Compression Fitting from Leaking.
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it might be a little cold for you here but stop in i have one on the rack right now with a deformed carb ferell seat that i stopped from leaking
 
You can straighten out a pitted or deformed seat with a round 7/16 stone.Put it in a drill and just touch the seat.It doesn't take much to straighten one out.It also doesn't take much to squash the ferrule,so if you are not getting it to squeeze down with a wrench there is something wrong.Make sure you aren't running out of threads before things get tight.If the hex is right up tight against the carb or bowl body something is wrong.You can tighten it up with a pipe wrench and it will still leak.That means that the threads are worn out on the body,the fittings are the wrong ones,or they are poorly made.I've been running into a lot of new threaded fittings lately where the threads run out before the fitting is tight enough to seal.
 
it might be a little cold for you here but stop in i have one on the rack right now with a deformed carb Ferrell seat that i stopped from leaking
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Glad it worked for You, I recommend doing it the Right Way, not Telling some to use a Crutch.
I have Wintered Cold Weather for 60 Years in North Eastern NY, on Lake Champlain, 40 miles South of the Olympic town of Lake Placid, NY, before I bought a Winter Home here if Florida. If your in Florida, I leave you with an open Invitation to Visit in Punta Gorda, just PM me. The current Temp here today is a little cool at 76 degrees, I may have to open the Windshield when I take a ride in my A this afternoon.

PS - If you have one on the rack?? Why aren't you using it!!
 
Hi Guys, apart from keeping original any reason why you couldn't make it with flexible hose and maybe braided with easier sealing fittings.
It concerns me that it is rigid and with the vibration could it crack?
Mine is in ozz so it is right hand drive and I have had wires short out at the bottom of the steering box no fire but the smoke certainly put the breeze up me with the carby sitting on top, just trying to minimise risk.

Ron
 
Keith True said:
You can straighten out a pitted or deformed seat with a round 7/16 stone.Put it in a drill and just touch the seat.It doesn't take much to straighten one out.It also doesn't take much to squash the ferrule,so if you are not getting it to squeeze down with a wrench there is something wrong.Make sure you aren't running out of threads before things get tight.If the hex is right up tight against the carb or bowl body something is wrong.You can tighten it up with a pipe wrench and it will still leak.That means that the threads are worn out on the body,the fittings are the wrong ones,or they are poorly made.I've been running into a lot of new threaded fittings lately where the threads run out before the fitting is tight enough to seal.
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Your exactly right Keith,look at the space between the last thread and the start of the flats on an original nut and most of the new made ones.Only ones made right are Jerry Graysons.Your buying poorly made fittings,its not the threads in the carb but the fittings. ken ct.
 
If you really want to fix it the easy way, just dump a can of Stop-Leak in your gas tank. It will not leak anymore and no need to worry about line wrenches or ferules or crimping, the gas will stay in your tank until it evaporates away, could take years! Just think what it will save in gas bills with the price of gas nowadays! Another advantage, you will have no need to fix those other little things that need attention, worn brakes, leaky radiator, noisy cam gear... etc. (Time for a bit of humor, lighten up people)
 
For some time now, the brass fittings for the sediment bulb end have been machined incorrectly. The leading first two threads need to be machined of the diameter. Quite often the carburetor end will not seal, due to pitting on the sealing surface inside the carburetor. This requires lapping with various grits of compound, possibly finishing off with tooth paste. Some carbs have required hand refinishing with a small rose chamfering tool mounted in a lathe or guide bushing.
 
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My original inside line had a slow drip. I found a small crack in the brass end, plus there was very little solder between the brass end and the steel line. I made a new brass end and made the flare part just a tad thicker, plus I made sure the full length of the brass to steel line had solder for added strength.
 
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