Generator
- Thread starter wildwilly
- Start date
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Open cutout contact gap should be about .020".
Jump the two cutout terminals for one second to polarize the generator, then start the car. Clip the + meter lead to a good ground and the - lead to the generator output stud. At fast idle you should have just over battery voltage, which was checked with the engine off.
Jump the two cutout terminals for one second to polarize the generator, then start the car. Clip the + meter lead to a good ground and the - lead to the generator output stud. At fast idle you should have just over battery voltage, which was checked with the engine off.
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How does fast idle work with the engine off?
sonny30coupe
Senior Member
He is saying that the voltage at fast idle should be just over what the voltage is at the battery when the engine is off.
Milton
Well-known member
About to check out my Gen, but first. How do you check the out put of the gen, and where would I find the adjustment for the 3rd brush ? this is on my early 30 45B. Oh thinking about it, is there a gap messurement for that cut out under that cap ??
The third brush is located at the rear of the generator under the cover stap. It is in contact with the commutator and can be adjusted by rotating it around the commutator. As I recall it is the brush near the top and the only one that you can push/pull with a finger when the engine isn't running. Use a non-conducting stick to adjust up for more down for less amps. At a fast idle adjust it for 10 amps at the ammeter.
For the cutout gap I don't recall. If it is charging when running and not discharging when everything is off, leave it alone. It is to keep the generator from motoring when the engine is stopped.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
If the generator third brush hasn't been moved for some time, it may be very tight at first. In that case I'd use an oak dowl or screwdriver and use the edge of the opening for leverage to get the brush moving. I always use an EVR in my generators, so I don't have to worry about setting the third brush or overcharging the battery. At 10 amps you'll be adding water to the battery quite often and overcharging it unless you are driving at night.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
This test will tell you if the genny is dead or not, apply voltage to it and if it runs like a motor it should work as a generator.
Terry NJ
Well-known member
Hook it up to a battery (remember, it's plus+ ground) it should run like an electric motor. If it does, it's good. If it doesn't, it's "rebuildable".
Terry
Terry
jkeesey
Well-known member
Install it on the car an check the amp meter or run the voltage sniff like described earlier. Or you can run a small electric motor and a short belt to see if it generates off the car. But if the generator motors it means it will either work or need rebuilt, in other words its worth your effort.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
You may need to repolarize the generator for it to generate. when bench testing with a battery or battery charger, you will need to ground the housing of the generator with the positive cable and touch the negative cable to the generator post, if not you will reverse the polarity. The generator will motor either way but if tested backwards the polarity will be reversed and the generator will NOT charge when reinstalled on the car.
reggiedog
Well-known member
I do know it worked when I took it out but now the motor is out of the car and wont be back in the car for a long time. But I want to check the starter and gen before I put every thing back in so if any thing don't work I can fix it now. Instead of doing it when I want to drive the car when every thing is done and painted. reggiedog
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Even if they do work now, now is the time to restore them. Take them apart, check the brushes, commutator, and bearings. Clean and repaint as needed. Now you will have a generator and starter that you know will work for a long time. Otherwise you are driveing an unkown and never know when it will quit.