What did you do today that was flathead V8 related?
- Thread starter ndnchf
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ndnchf
Well-known member
Periodically I have to take time out to make generator parts. While I can buy some things, many of those require modification to work properly. Lately I've been making or modifying model A and V8 wiring, insulators, pulley nuts, bearing spacer rings for my V8 generator double row, angular contact sealed bearing conversion and rebuilding field coil sets. Next will be testing, adjusting and refurbishing another batch of original Ford cutouts. It takes a lot of behind the scenes work to have everything needed to restore these old Ford generators.
I'm retired. But it sure doesn't seem like it
I'm retired. But it sure doesn't seem like it
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petehoovie
Well-known member
Damn, you're good!!!Periodically I have to take time out to make generator parts. While I can buy some things, many of those require modification to work properly. Lately I've been making or modifying model A and V8 wiring, insulators, pulley nuts, bearing spacer rings for my V8 generator double row, angular contact sealed bearing conversion and rebuilding field coil sets. Next will be testing, adjusting and refurbishing another batch of original Ford cutouts. It takes a lot of behind the scenes work to have everything needed to restore these old Ford generators.
I'm retired. But it sure doesn't seem like it
petehoovie
Well-known member
38 coupe
Well-known member
Earlier this week I was running the old Kwik-Way boring bar that a friend has. This 8BA is for a different friend. It was already +0.040 with wear that didn't clean up at +0.060. The most cost effective pistons and rings were +.125, so I made lots of passes on the block. Everything cleaned up nicely.
Next week will be work on the next engine. Off camera to the right is another 8BA that has rusty bores, the worst one cleaned up at +.1875. We had the block sonic tested and will shift some bores around a bit to get consistent cylinder wall thickness. I have a used 4 1/8 crank that will take -0.002 bearings, and a $100 set of NOS 21A rods. Used pistons and new rings to finish the rotating assembly. We expect to assemble a 296 for less than $2k. It will probably go in a 1939 1 1/2 ton truck.
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petehoovie
Well-known member
Earlier this week I was running the old Kwik-Way boring bar that a friend has. This 8BA is for a different friend. It was already +0.040 with wear that didn't clean up at +0.060. The most cost effective pistons and rings were +.125, so I made lots of passes on the block. Everything cleaned up nicely.
Next week will be work on the next engine. Off camera to the right is another 8BA that has rusty bores, the worst one cleaned up at +.1875. We had the block sonic tested and will shift some bores around a bit to get consistent cylinder wall thickness. I have a used 4 1/8 crank that will take -0.002 bearings, and a $100 set of NOS 21A rods. Used pistons and new rings to finish the rotating assembly. We expect to assemble a 296 for less than $2k. It will probably go in a 1939 1 1/2 ton truck.
glennpm
Well-known member
will shift some bores around a bit to get consistent cylinder wall thickness.
Interesting projects Fred.
Regarding shifting bores, parallel to crankshaft journals only?
38 coupe
Well-known member
Shifting whichever direction is needed based on the sonic test results. Some cylinders need shifting parallel to the crankshaft, others axially to the crankshaft. This old Kwik-Way boring bar uses three legs to center in an existing bore. I had to do some trig to calculate the shim needed to put between the wall and one leg to get the shift I wanted. Modern spreadsheet software makes the calculations easy once the formula is figured out, I'm very glad I didn't have to work through those by hand. I haven't shimmed one leg of the boring bar like this before, so it will be a learning experience centering up the boring bar while keeping a shim pack in place. The attached pictures show the sonic test results, and the calculated shimming needed. Cylinder #3 is the one I bored to size before sonic testing was done, and the wall at the back of the cylinder is thinner than ideal but I think it will be ok.
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Shifting whichever direction is needed based on the sonic test results. Some cylinders need shifting parallel to the crankshaft, others axially to the crankshaft. This old Kwik-Way boring bar uses three legs to center in an existing bore. I had to do some trig to calculate the shim needed to put between the wall and one leg to get the shift I wanted. Modern spreadsheet software makes the calculations easy once the formula is figured out, I'm very glad I didn't have to work through those by hand. I haven't shimmed one leg of the boring bar like this before, so it will be a learning experience centering up the boring bar while keeping a shim pack in place. The attached pictures show the sonic test results, and the calculated shimming needed. Cylinder #3 is the one I bored to size before sonic testing was done, and the wall at the back of the cylinder is thinner than ideal but I think it will be ok.
Very impressive
glennpm
Well-known member
Excellent, good work Fred! Will you grind a longer crank journal for the axial shifts?
Or, better, grind connecting rod ends but then there would be clearance on the opposite side. Don't know what you could do about that?
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petehoovie
Well-known member
38 coupe
Well-known member
No change to the crankshaft or rods. There is enough space between the edge of the small end of the rod and the piston to take up small changes like this. The Model T crowd used to put Model A crankshafts in their engines when they wanted lots of strength and a bit more power. Those A cranked T engines had the rods something like 1/4 inch offset from the piston centerline with no longevity problems.
Really this is an exercise in doing something with a pile of parts I have accumulated at low cost over the years. The only parts specifically purchased for this are the head gaskets, pistons, and rings, and the pistons were cheap since they were used.
Mart
Well-known member
Thanks for showing the bore measurements and shift diagrams. I did something similar myself a while ago and I like how you presented your results.
I spent the last couple of days attempting to gas weld some cracks in the front fenders on my 33 coupe. Not too bad, but I am going to see if I can get my technique a bit better with attention to gas pressures and nozzle size and cleanliness.
Mart.
I spent the last couple of days attempting to gas weld some cracks in the front fenders on my 33 coupe. Not too bad, but I am going to see if I can get my technique a bit better with attention to gas pressures and nozzle size and cleanliness.
Mart.
petehoovie
Well-known member
ndnchf
Well-known member
I just finished restoring this 1933-1939 style V8 6 volt generator - with a twist. It was converted from 3 to 2-brush configuration and an internal Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) was installed.
No more 3rd brush to adjust. Current and voltage are automatically controlled based on the car's electrical load. I've been running one in my all LED equipped '35 Ford Touring car for a couple years now. It works great! A hidden improvement that also improves battery life by preventing overcharging.
I'll have this and other restored generators at fall Hershey.
No more 3rd brush to adjust. Current and voltage are automatically controlled based on the car's electrical load. I've been running one in my all LED equipped '35 Ford Touring car for a couple years now. It works great! A hidden improvement that also improves battery life by preventing overcharging.
I'll have this and other restored generators at fall Hershey.
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Took apart the control panel which was used to operate a C69A flathead for a local ski left. The voltage regulator was severely corroded on the outside, but in the inside it looked brand new. Even had a weird electrical smell on the inside of the cover. The company who made it (Allanson) is still around in the Toronto Area.
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RalphM
Well-known member
Got the front clip mostly together on the 47(with 46 grille). Had a hard time with the red in the grille bars. I suck at pinstriping. I tried using a Buegler but the stainless is too slick and the wheel would not turn properly. I might take it all off and use some pinstriping tape. But it just won’t look as good as the paint.
