'35 Spare Tire Lock

[deuce lover]

With due respect the pins are spring loaded.I have worked on quite a few of these locking hubcaps.The twist off screw head needs to be slotted (so you can use a screwdriver)to remove the end cap of the lock cyl then comes off and pins are free.There then is a slotted head set screw that secures the cylinder in place.

 

[32phil]

As usual Seldon is correct!

 

[deuce lover]

Phil, I was typing while you were but you beat me to post it.

 

[Don Rogers]

Here are some photos of the Briggs and Stratton keys and lock cylinder for the 35 locking spare tire cap.

 

[Steve in Denver]

Thanks Don and everyone. My friend is not ready to give up on the lock yet, as it is original and somewhat rare. I will keep everyone posted of our progress.

 

[AW3000]

The cylinder in the '35 lock was successfully drilled out and the "hub cap" successfully removed. Steve supplied me with a new lock and the key matches the ignition. I have been unsuccessful in removing the old cylinder. Any suggestions on how to pull the old lock out and replace it with the "new" one?

 

[Brian]

On the back side of the hubcap, there is a small screw which holds the lock into place...have you removed said screw?

 

[AW3000]

Is the red arrow in the attached photo pointing to a screw? I couldn't recognize it as such since it has a lot of paint on it and no obvious screwdriver slot.

 

[AW3000]

Brian - I re-read your post. Were you referring to the set screw? I did remove that, but the lock didn't move.

 

[Steve in Denver]

His problem is that the hub cap is still on the spare on the car.

 

[deuce lover]

If he removed the set screw ,the hubcap is not on the spare as you mentioned.That screw indicated by the red arrow retains the disc that secures the 3 spring loaded pins.It is not the set screw.The set screw is on the side of the cast housing that the lock cyl is in.The exact location might differ from 32-35.This pic I posted is of a 33 V8 locking hubcap.


Here is a pic of the set screw location.

 

[Brian]

AW3000, the red arrow in your picture points to a screw that retains the three fingers. use a hacksaw or thin cut off wheel in a grinder to cut a slot in the head of that screw...then you can use a screwdriver to unscrew it. the retainer plate and three fingers can then be removed allowing the remains of your lock to come out the front of hubcap

 

[deuce lover]

Brian,I don't think he has got to the set screw yet ? If in fact the spare is still on the car as noted in post #30 it will be difficult to access that screw as well as the set screw.

 

[32phil]

DM sent

 

[AW3000]

Thanks Brian. I'll grind off the rear-facing screw as you suggested.

 

[tubman]

Thanks Brian. I'll grind off the rear-facing screw as you suggested.

Make sure that you check the DM from "32phil" before you do anything permanent. All due respect to "Brian", but Phil is one of the best "Lock & Key" men in the old car community.

 

[Brian]

Sheldon: "Brian,I don't think he has got to the set screw yet ? If in fact the spare is still on the car as noted in post #30 it will be difficult to access that screw as well as the set screw"



AW3000; The cylinder in the '35 lock was successfully drilled out and the "hub cap" successfully removed.

 

[Don Rogers]

There were a fair amount of Briggs and Stratton lock cylinders used on 35 Ford locking hubcaps. Here are some images showing the assembly.

 

[Steve in Denver]

Thanks Don,
Alan did drill the lock and got it off the spare and was finally able to remove the cylinder.
Thanks everyone for your help.

 

[AW3000]

As a follow-up for other novices like myself, I've attached a photo showing the back of the "hubcap" with the locking pins displayed, along with a photo showing everything re-installed on the spare of Betty Ford. I did have to lightly file down the taper on the locking pins - they were just too tight to fully turn the lock closed. Possibly why no one can ever pick these locks - everything is wedged too tight to turn the lock pick lever. Thanks to everyone.