1933 V8: Troubleshooting...suggestions welcome

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Do you know if the distributor done by us was converted to the later (37-48) points or is original points (32-36).
 
Hi Michael,
Thanks for popping in.
You actually supplied me with two distributors:
1. Original points 32-36
2. One converted to later points


As stated above dizzy #1 was used until recently and gave total satisfaction. Upon inspection (after troubleshooting fuel supply) we discovered the hex nut thats locks the advance brake system was loose. we tightened it hoping it was the cause of the problem. But it was not. We then played (and it was a mistake) with the settings.



In oder to continue the troubleshooting and because we did "play" with dizzy#1 we decided to install dizzy #2 in the car. Symptom still there ;-(
We then tested the engine with a vacuum gauge (reported above) without finding a cause.


Planning to test the fuel pump over the coming days.
If no luck at that stage we will plan to install a new condenser (you supplied one to me).
I have ordered locally a Pertronix coil (#40011) to rule out the current Beru ZS105 in the car.
Last will be to renew the ignition wires.
What else could it be then ?


As a side question: without the setting machine, is there a way to restore settings of dizzy #1 to nominal values ?



Take good care.
 
If you try the 40011 coil, you will need to bypass the ignition resistor under the dash.
As for Dizzy#1 the vacuum brake has little to no affect with today's fuels and personally I run the line for looks but block it off. Set the timing adjust back to the middle and you should be swell.

You need to have 3.9-4.6 Volts at the coil.

Your issue sounds ironically like point float which is why I chimed in, but if both Dizzy's give the same results likely that is not it. HIGHLY doubtful but weak or broken valve spring can cause the same issue. If you pull the choke slightly when acting up does it get better or worse?
 
This is just a wild guess but, could the little flexible fuel line on the firewall between the gas line and the carb be faulty?
 
As I understand it, the engine runs fine up to a given rpm, smooth, no misses, no popping. The sound on that video also bears that out. Something, carb gasket, throttle linkage is limiting how much throttle the engine can get.
 
To reset the distributor vacuum brake adjustment: Screw the adjustment screw out until it starts to bind, then screw it in about 1-1/2 turns and lock it down with the nut.
The 97 has an adjustment for where the power valve opens during throttle opening movement. The power valve should start to open with the throttle plates are 0.315" open and the accelerator link in the "S" position.
 
Terry said:
To reset the distributor vacuum brake adjustment: Screw the adjustment screw out until it starts to bind, then screw it in about 1-1/2 turns and lock it down with the nut.
The 97 has an adjustment for where the power valve opens during throttle opening movement. The power valve should start to open with the throttle plates are 0.315" open and the accelerator link in the "S" position.
Click to expand...


Hi Terry,
Thanks for the tips on dizzy and carb. Have fitted a brand new dizzy from 3rd Gen. Still have the problem. Carb operation was verified twice (rods disconnected, etc).
Still looking for cause...
 
35fordtn said:
If you try the 40011 coil, you will need to bypass the ignition resistor under the dash.
As for Dizzy#1 the vacuum brake has little to no affect with today's fuels and personally I run the line for looks but block it off. Set the timing adjust back to the middle and you should be swell.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the information. Will report back here when I get new coil.



35fordtn said:
Your issue sounds ironically like point float which is why I chimed in, but if both Dizzy's give the same results likely that is not it. HIGHLY doubtful but weak or broken valve spring can cause the same issue. If you pull the choke slightly when acting up does it get better or worse?
Click to expand...
We did the vacuum gauge test. Reported earlier. Needle values and behavior show engine in good condition...


Thank you for your help
 
17 is not as good as you think. Try adjusting the two brass idle adjustment mixture screws slowly, one at a time, to get in as close to 20 or higher at idle with the engine warmed up. Do adjustments with vacuum gauge attached look for the smoothest idle and steady vacuum. This will not fix your problem with high speed. It is an idle adjustment. At high speed the carburetor uses different internal passages than the idle.
 
It is possible that the pickup tube in the gas tank is obstructed from bad gas/debris/sludge from gas tank sealer, etc. It’s a real pain to remove the tank and run a small long drill rod down through the intake tube but that is what was wrong with my 36 ….
 
Was your gas tank cleaned and then lined with the sealant ? I’ve seen that sealant start to separate and have long flaps that are still attached to the inside of the tank but could obstruct the pickup line .
With a blocked exhaust, the vacuum needle will progressively drop until your motor dies .
 
Hang a coke bottle with gas from the sun shade sipion some gas down direct to carb ,use a windscreen washer hose ,Fix a jump wire from battery neg direct to coil with alligator clips if you like .Road test this will eliminate pump, tank ,dash wiring ,resister , switch issues ,make sure you don't have gas leaks ,Ted
 
Also, even with a crook fuel supply or problems, the engine should rev to buggery with it in neutral. that needs to be clarified ,
or just not under load.
Lawrie
 
Thanks to all for suggestions.
As of today we are finishing the renewal of ignition wires. Unsure this will cure the problem but this was overdue anyway.
What we are planning to do:
1. Test with a new coil
2. Test with a new condenser
3. Test with bypass of fuel pump/tank (e.g. secondary tank direct to carb)


Thanks again for your support into this tricky problem.



Will also recheck with vac gauge hooked up and tune as per Terry's suggestion.
 
Dear fellow barners.
Outcome of tests is not positive. Symptom identical after tests were completed in sequence:
1. new coil (Pertronix 40011) - problem still exists
2. new condenser (supplied by ThirdGen) - problem still exists
3. hooked up a gas tank direct to carb, fuel pump output to small outside tank: problem still exists. fuel pump output was checked ± 500ml (1pt) over 30 sec @700 rpm


Gradually getting desperate and will be reading your suggestions with great interest ;-)
 
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