1937 distributor quizz question........

Before the engine stops running, it will often act as if it is starving for fuel.
Also, once it (engine) finally dies, it will usually start back up after an hour or so and run okay for a short time until the symptoms repeat themselves.
 
Kube said:
Before the engine stops running, it will often act as if it is starving for fuel.
Also, once it (engine) finally dies, it will usually start back up after an hour or so and run okay for a short time until the symptoms repeat themselves.
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Hmmmmm. So these symptoms seem to align with mine. I have swapped out the main body of the distributor but the top part that holds the coil, remains.
The engine runs so perfectly when first started and I can take it for a short run, then when starting again (if it starts) it runs like its starving for gas.
Sometimes after the initial start, it just wont even start again.
Is there any way to test?
Hey, and thanks guys, this seems to be my last hiccup in a fairly extensive amount of work all with the help of everyone on this forum.

Thanks to Deuce Lover too.
 
You might consider an adapter coil plate and run the coil remotely.Those coils maybe availabe in your country.


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I was a mechanic my entire life. When it dies and won't start, I'd pull the air cleaner and see if its squirting fuel into the engine, if it does, it's not a fuel problem. If you want, you could also spay some starting fluid into the carb and see if it starts. If it still doesn't want to start than its probably the ignition. Next, I would check for voltage to the coil and if it's good, I would try a coil since you already replaced the distributor. When you check for the "available" voltage at the coil you need to remove the wire you are checking voltage at or make "sure" the points are open, otherwise if they are closed the circuit is complete and you will be doing a "voltage drop test" and get a zero reading or a slight voltage reading instead of the actual available volage to the coil. Even if the coil does not fix the problem, you'll have a spare coil. It's always a good idea to carry a spare distributer and coil with you on an old Ford and the tools to replace them.
 
You can find '37-'41 coils fairly easy. Someone on here will sell you one. Send it to Skip for a rebuild and you'll be in good shape for a long time.

I like the trouble shooting ideas Flathead Fever suggested.
 
Flathead Fever said:
When you check for the "available" voltage at the coil you need to remove the wire you are checking voltage at or make "sure" the points are open, otherwise if they are closed the circuit is complete and you will be doing a "voltage drop test" and get a zero reading or a slight voltage reading instead of the actual available volage to the coil.
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Disagree with that. If you disconnect the wire to the coil, (or engine stopped with points open) you will just read battery voltage. That doesn't tell you anything.
You need current flowing when measuring voltage at the coil, to account for the voltage drop thru the ignition resistor, and any parasite resistance thru the switch or elsewhere.
 
Flathead Fever said:
I was a mechanic my entire life. When it dies and won't start, I'd pull the air cleaner and see if its squirting fuel into the engine, if it does, it's not a fuel problem. If you want, you could also spay some starting fluid into the carb and see if it starts. If it still doesn't want to start than its probably the ignition. Next, I would check for voltage to the coil and if it's good, I would try a coil since you already replaced the distributor. When you check for the "available" voltage at the coil you need to remove the wire you are checking voltage at or make "sure" the points are open, otherwise if they are closed the circuit is complete and you will be doing a "voltage drop test" and get a zero reading or a slight voltage reading instead of the actual available volage to the coil. Even if the coil does not fix the problem, you'll have a spare coil. It's always a good idea to carry a spare distributer and coil with you on an old Ford and the tools to replace them.
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Yip. I too do the old spray down the carb trick and tried that. Will try your other steps. Thanks.
 
yeh there are some that just dont get it WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA dollar conversion + freight is just a killer But Damon theres hope yet try Dave Slater in Albury Wodonga or John Kerr in Sydney . Both are reliable
 
aussie merc said:
yeh there are some that just dont get it WE ARE IN AUSTRALIA dollar conversion + freight is just a killer But Damon theres hope yet try Dave Slater in Albury Wodonga or John Kerr in Sydney . Both are reliable
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Hey mate. I just spoke to Dave and he's a great guy. I ended up finding a reconned one ($80) 50kms away. Super pleased.
 
I would be willing to send a nice original brown coil to skip for you, so that you only have to pay him to rebuild it and the shipping would be one way to you. In my opinion this is much better than the coil adapter route. Have skip send a good condenser with the coil too.
If you are interested in this, PM me. I would do this no charge.
 
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