adding electric fuel pump

D

dbdevkc

Member
1950 Ford. We are planning to add an electric fuel pump - will be putting in line just in front of the rear leaf spring on the frame rail. Questions: The fuel line is currently secured to the frame rail using adel clamps, so we expect to be removing a few of those so we can get access to the line to spin a tube cutter abound the line. But should I be concerned about the gas in the line from the tank - Should I siphon out the take before attempting this? I need to cut the tubbing, then flare the ends .
 
Break the flex line at the firewall and blow a shot of air in the line back to the tank. Remove the gas cap before you do this.
 
I put one on my '51 in 1992. I learned a lot and removed it in 1995.

Get a properly rebuilt from Charlie Schwendler in New York and everything will be fine.
 
No need to empty the tank. When you make the cut in the fuel line....have a pan or jar ready to catch the existing fuel in the line. Usually around a pint or so. Be certain to check the size of your fuel line that it is the same size as the rubber line supplied with your new electric pump. Many aren't! I have an electric pump on my '50 as well as a "Charlie Schwindler" rebuilt pump. I use it to prime if it sits for a month or so and also in case of the dreaded "vapor lock!" Otherwise I don't need it. Good luck

Merry Christmas!
Pat
 
@Ken/Alabama - Good idea.

@Pat/Ohio - Thanks for the tip on the hose size - and I hope our experience is similar to your's - it is encouraging.

@marco39 - I don't think a ferral will work - they're just getting inserted into a short rubber hose connected to the elec pump and clamped.

@tubman - "I learned a lot and removed it in 1995." Now you've piqued my interest... what did you learn that caused you to remove the electric?

Thanks!
 
Mine has an electric pump added by the previous owner, it’s on a momentary switch, I only use it to prime the carb after sitting for a while. There is a filter before the pump also.
 
I installed an electric pump on my '46 Super Deluxe a number of years ago, and only use it for "priming", if the car has sat for for several weeks. I sent my pump and carb to Charlie NY for servicing. I bolted them on when I got them back, and didn't have to do any adjustments on the carb, including idle speed.
The pump had (2.5 PSI) marked on it, to show the pressure that it was putting out. No issues after sitting for a few days or a week, and the engine hasn't experienced "vapor lock", even on very hot days after a long drive. Bottom line... I realize now that I really didn't need an electric pump.

In case you decide to install one, I did as Ken/Alabama suggested to clear the line. I cut out a section of the line just ahead of the axle, and formed a slight "bubble" on each of the line ends with a flaring tool. The idea is to have a section with a larger diameter, that will stop the clamped piece of the hose from sliding off. Check the polarity if you have 6V + ground
 

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51woodie said:
I installed an electric pump on my '46 Super Deluxe a number of years ago, and only use it for "priming", if the car has sat for for several weeks. I sent my pump and carb to Charlie NY for servicing. I bolted them on when I got them back, and didn't have to do any adjustments on the carb, including idle speed.
The pump had (2.5 PSI) marked on it, to show the pressure that it was putting out. No issues after sitting for a few days or a week, and the engine hasn't experienced "vapor lock", even on very hot days after a long drive. Bottom line... I realize now that I really didn't need an electric pump.

In case you decide to install one, I did as Ken/Alabama suggested to clear the line. I cut out a section of the line just ahead of the axle, and formed a slight "bubble" on each of the line ends with a flaring tool. The idea is to have a section with a larger diameter, that will stop the clamped piece of the hose from sliding off. Check the polarity if you have 6V + ground
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At one time the quality of the electric pumps were good enough to last the life of the car. However in recent years, they have become unreliable. A few years back i installed one in my truck and it and a few others didn't last more than a few months. SSOOOOO! Installen an intank pump. Picked one up in a junk yard tank and all, came from a 90's Ford pU. probably original equipment, still works. Had to install a regular for the carb.. even came with a gauge sender and it works as well with aftermarket Gauge.
Gramps
 
Basically, there are a couple of factors that allow the successful use of a stock fuel pump. First, you need a quality pump; they are not all created equal, and "new" or "rebuilt" does not necessarily mean "good" anymore. I'm lazy and let Charlie take care of it. Second, your engine should be in tip-top shape. A leaking power valve, a dirty carb, or just a plain worn out engine will all cause problems. Since my '51 is my favorite car, I like keeping it in the best shape possible all the time, and this includes keeping the old points ignition system "tuned up".
 
Make sure it is a "flow through pump", not all of them are. To check it, figure out the direction of the flow of the pump. Blow through it. If you can blow through it, you are good to go. If not, when you turn the pump off the gas will stop.

I have had a Airtex in my car for 10 years and it still works great. Unfortunately, they have gone out of business.

I now have one of these, in a box as a backup:

https://www.amazon.com/AUTOKAY-Electric-Buick-assist-primary/dp/B08HQP833N/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

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No one has mentioned an inertia "roll over" switch yet.
Your car could become ashes without one. All modern cars have them.
 
Flow through meaning the mechanical will still be able to such fuel through the electric pump when it is off - not all electric pumps will do/allow that.
 
I had the same idea about an electric pump. Due to lung damage from Covid, I cannot get under. Instead I give the carburetor a shot of ether after sitting a while and the car starts right up and runs fine.
 
Pete said:
Depends on "what if?".
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"what if" what? ... The momentary switch gets stuck on? Or if the inertia switch fails?... LOL.
How would one test the current functionality of the inertia switch - how do I know it is actually going to work when I really need it? ;)

Seriously though, I am all for having redundancy - I have seen oil pressure safety switches - where would I find an inertia safety switch?
 
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