Premium gas in model a

Jordan

Well-known member
Are there any I'll affects to running premium gas in a model a? I live in Texas and this summer it seems like more A's are having vapor lock issues down here and it's rumored that premium gas doesn't vapor lock as easily. Let me know what you think. I leave on a tour tomorrow across the state of Texas, and it's going to be 101 degrees plus humidity.
 
Are there any I'll affects to running premium gas in a model a? I live in Texas and this summer it seems like more A's are having vapor lock issues down here and it's rumored that premium gas doesn't vapor lock as easily. Let me know what you think. I leave on a tour tomorrow across the state of Texas, and it's going to be 101 degrees plus humidity.

The rumors are wrong. The only difference with premium is more resistance to knock. Model As ran on 70 octane fuel back in the day. You don't need 93!
 
I bet you have an air filter on your carb, right? Take the air filter off the carb.

That filter is sitting TOO close to the exhaust manifold, absorbing all that heat and transferring it to the carburetor body, thus boiling the gas in the bowl.

Did a 101 degree drive 400 miles a few years ago with an air maze filter. The car got slower and slower and slower. I opened the engine to check it out and you could hear the gas boiling in the carb. The wrench sizzled when I tried to get the filter off. Engines want cool air.

That's why all the Honda tuners put Cold Air Intakes on their car.... for more performance.
 
Another question on the same subject. I have a choice between regular gas with 10% ethanol or premium without ethanol. Which one would be considered the best of two evils? Thanks. Howie
 
No I don't have an air filter on my carb. And I forgot to say the part that premium gas doesn't have the ethanol in it.
 
Another question on the same subject. I have a choice between regular gas with 10% ethanol or premium without ethanol. Which one would be considered the best of two evils? Thanks. Howie

The problem with ethanol fuels is the ethanol can fall out if you get some moisture in the gas tank. I had a half inch of water/ethanol in my glass fuel bowl one time. The other consideration is ethanol has a lower BTU content so mileage will suffer slightly.

The worst thing about ethanol is it is burning our food and making food more expensive. Ethanol in fuel is a buy the farm vote scheme.
 
My dad told me many years ago that when he came from Texas to California in 1935, that they would purchase about half gasoline and half kerosene (kerosene was significantly cheaper 5 or 6 cents a gallon less) and that the car (I think it was a 29 Business coupe) he was driving did O.K. during the trip, evidentally an "A" will run on much less than 70 octane fuel.

The loss of milage of ethanol 10% versus pure gasoline is about 2200 BTU (gasoline around 114,000 btu summer blend, 10% Gasahol 111,800 BTU) and all the calculations depend on which authority you use for your data, but all in all about a 2% loss in btu per gallon. Which even if you give it a 5% loss only means a loss of about 0.6 miles per gallon on an "A" that gets 18 MPG, I am pretty sure that I can't tell the difference of the two gallons for the approximate 1000 miles a year I drive my "A". Also there should be no components in an "A" that would be affected by ethanol, unless there is a rubber hose fuel line that shouldn't be there because of the fire hazard. SO WHY is there all this controversy over using ethanol. If you tune your "A" with ethanol in the tank and it runs O.K. what difference does it make.

This is not a flame or pissing contest question, but my chemistry background, wants more information about why ethanol is such a poor fuel. How much is the mileage decreased? I have been reading all of the threads over the last month or so and I see mileage reports of anywhere from 10-25 MPG on what people are reporting on their "A", but the reports don't appear to be 10 MPG due to ethanol, but 10 MPG is just what that particular "A" gets. Does someone have an experience where they got 20 MPG with Gasoline, then had to use Gasahol got 10 MPG was then able on the same trip fill back up with Gasoline and the mileage immediately went back to 20 MPG (on the same trip if possible)?

Does ethanol cause pinging or some other problem that could cause mechanical damage to the engine?
 
I have a friend that was a senior VP (he just retired) at a major oil company. He says ethnol is about 15% less effecient than pure gasoline.
 
The alcohol added to the gas boils more easily. That (and its affinity to absorb water) is about the only downside.

Most areas that have alcohol in their regular gas also have it in the high octane gas (for air pollution control).
 
Ethanol, the good and the bad.

First the bad:

Short shelf life
Know to cause sticking valves
Lower fuel mileage
Boils at a lower temp and causes drivability problems in warm weather
Eats rubber
Eats cork floats
Absorbs water
Turns brass floats green
Raises food costs
Costs more to produce than gas

Now, the good:
 
Marvin/TN

I have a friend that worked in the chemistry department at Chevron who told me that at the worst the mileage loss was about 8% and they tried to blend the other additives to produce the best gas mileage possible. Neither one of us have good data, just friends with opinions. Is there any good data available from "A" drivers with mileage differences?

Jim/TX

Gasoline boils at 100-400 degrees depending upon which additives are used to produce the desired octane. ethanol boils at 78 degrees (without using any of the chemistry laws: Boyle's, Henry's, Clausius-calpeyron, etc) when two liquids are mixed together then tend to boil towards the lower temperature. However 10% ethanol would only lower the 100 degree maybe to 90-95 degrees and the 400 to 300 degrees. Now it is possible that a 5-10 degree drop in boiling point could affect the usability of the fuel. Does anybody know the boiling point for gasohol or maybe a chemist who works for one of the companies that produce fuel for your area.

Water absorption, 100% ethanol absorbs water immediately upon exposure to the atmosphere and continues to absorb the water until it becomes fairly stable at approximately 70% ethanol and 30% water. A gallon of fuel equals about 4000ml for calculation simplicity. 4000ml of Gasohol x 10% = 400 ml of ethanol. If we assume that the ethanol is 100%, then that amount of ethanol would absorb about 120ml of water. Now that is a significant amount of water and would equal about one quart of water for a full tank of fuel in an "A" which would be determental to the engine. (unless it helps to get rid of the carbon). However, ethanol and water are a very stable solution. (when was the last time that you saw a water and alcohol separation in that bottle of 70% alcohol in your medicine cabinet), I cannot envision the water separating from the ethanol from a chemistry standpoint.

Tom/MN

Bad

Short shelf life - gasoline one year / gasohol 90 days. I personally have not had a tank or even a partial tank of fuel in my "A" for 90 days, I drive it enough during the season to need a fill-up at least every 2 weeks and drain it during the winter.

Known to cause sticking valves - I did not know that, does it harm the engine? Will using one of the many mentioned special liquids (Marvel Oil, Auto Trans Fluid, etc.) in these threads resolve the problem?

Lower fuel mileage - any data?

Boils at ...... see above.

Eats rubber - addressed in my first reply. Should not be a problem in an "A".

Eats corks - BAD BAD BAD in an A this so far is the only valid reason I have seen for avoiding it. I really hate running out of gas on a tour.

Absorbs water ...... see above.

Turns brass floats green - Called patina in antiques adds to the value. Any real damage to the float, pinholes?

Raises food costs - political, should not be discussed on this forum.

Costs more to produce than gas - Gas or Gasohol is going to cost us exactly how much the oil companies can get away with charging us. At least some of that money spent on alcohol goes to farmers in the United States rather than to foreign countries.

Good- I won't argue that it is good, I just don't understand all the arguments for BAD.
 
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"Raises food costs - political, should not be discussed on this forum."


not political.
just pure economic reality.
taking corn aweay from the food chain to make ethanol makes less available for food use and will increase the price. not complicated. ;)
 
Now my limited experience with ethanol in Model A s only goes back to 1988. Denver started using it then.

The best thing about ethanol use was when MTBE came along! Some companies had the ethanol crap and Standard oil used MTBE which worked fine.

Then some genius used his theories with no practical experience with ethanol and decided that MTBE was bad for cockroaches or something and it was gone.

Chris Pelikan ran tests with ethanol gas to find a cause for vapor lock (with the help of Conoco / Phillips as I remember). It boiled at 100 degrees for winter gas and 140 for summer gas at 6000 feet (these numbers will be higher at lower altitudes due to the increased pressure).

There was one town at 11000 feet that Chris found was selling winter gas in July! Cars were dead on the side of the road for miles. The tanks where purged and problem ended.

I had 5 gallons of winter ethanol gas in a US Army "gerry" can. Temperature was 98+, when I removed the cover and relieved the pressure ... the "gas" boiled for 2-3 minutes in the can! "I wonder why engines vapor lock?" That never happened before Iowa's crap gas.

Ethanol destroys the shellac on the gas gauge cork floats used to seal them and they sink to bottom of the tank.

Ethanol destroys rubber hoses and Neoprene gaskets in sediment bowls (two gaskets in a month) ... "gas" leaks on ground. Neoprene gas gauge seals same same. Although the neoprene float in my gas-tank has worked fine for 4 years.


If you do not believe this then be sure to carry some cork gaskets and extra "gas" or you will be walking home ... if the fire does not get you first!

Lately I have seen a number of carbs gummed up with green and or brown permatex looking junk after sitting with "gasoline" inside over the winter ... jets totally plugged and sticking floats.

I could go on and one about this but I was told that my blood pressure is high enough already!
 
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On our return from the Dallas Meet in 2008 the sedan started having vapor lock. I street rod stopped and suggested premium because of no ethanol it solved the problem. We wrote about it in the Model A Times after the tour in 2008.
 
Ethanated fuels are not such a problem in MODERN vehicles with fuel-injection, because there is a high-pressure pump in the tank, and the fuel is in a sealed, pressurized system; therfore there is not such an issue with the ethanated fuel flashing into a vapor state as there is with mechanically-pumped systems trying to pull fuel through eight to ten feet of line.

The increased water content of ethanated fuels brings with it corrosion problems.

Modern cars are built to resist the corrosive elements in the ethanated fuels, and are also built for an expected working life of less than 20 years.

A well-respected carburetor rebuilder (his bread- & butter job) down in Missouri has found that to get older (pre-1985 carbureted) vehicles to run most efficiently on ethanated fuels, they are having to increase the jet sizing on carbs, and retard the timing a bit from factory specs... power is decreased a bit, and fuel mileage also decreases.

Percolation and vapor lock still remain as warm-weather headaches; more so than when a given vehicle was running "pure" gasoline.

I am old enough to remember lots of folks (including my Dad) getting on the Gas-A-Hol band-wagon back in the late 1970's... but, that craze passed, and I think at that time folks never really found out about ethanated fuels' darker side...
 
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I have found two additional problems due to ethanol in my 1930 Town Sedan. The fuel line began forming internal rust - and a fine gray powder deposit formed on the pot metal of the fuel sediment bowl housing. Both of these contaminated the gasoline supply to the carb and would cause intermitent fluttering of the engine. I found the problem by taking these fuel system components apart and inspecting for the cause of the fine crud that was reaching the carb.
 
I have read many post about changing heat range on plugs, --my plugs burn black, what is a better plug to use to cure it --rarely do I read---my plugs burm black, what can I do to fix my rich mixture problem ----the ethanol is your goverment trying to help you.

NJ has had ethanol in the gas for years, my gas gauge still works.

I will say that the gas can leave a brown goo on the tip of the jet if I don't run the fuel level down in the carb before shutoff.

I have checked the exhause emissions on my car ---both before, and after ethonal and it has changed my carb from slightly rich with the GAV closed (4%co) to less than 1% co with the GAV closed at 1500 rpm under load.

I have seen it seperate, but most times it was sold by the station that way.

Perhaps it is something other than the ethanol that is added to the mix that is causing the problem, when it was first introduced I replaced quite a few fuel pressure regulators on benzes, ---but none in the last 2 years.

I am not saying that I like the gas, but I know that the A can tolerate it much better than other old cars ---with the GAV you can adjust for many different qualitys of fuels.

As for fuel mileage I don't keep records now, I did keep records on a long trip I made to the world meet but the fuel mileage on a long trip running --23 mpg at 60-65, now in my short trip driving --2-100 mile trips is still in the range of 20 ---good enough that I don't worry about fuel consumption

Vapor lock??not one of the problems I have, even with winter gas on hot days, with a crack in the ex manifold puffing on the carb ---I do know of some cars(not A) that have had fuel boiling problems --they still have fuel boiling problems with ethonal fuel.

All of the Benzes that are my daily drivers say--preimum fuel only ---I have only used regular, the 420 pings some on some brands ---the 320 doesn't care, and it gets better fuel mileage than a co-worker with the same car that only gets preimum.
The old benz diesels don't care if they get a little of any spoiled gas --they will even burn antifreeze( was accidental)
 
True John ... some stations have 10% in reg, 6 % in midrange and 0% in premium. I am not sure how the percentage is determined though or if that is a statewide mandate or up to the individual station management to specify the ethanol mix. I can not imagine that the gas terminals are mixing for individual tank loads. I would think the mix is same same for all tanker loads statewide. But who knows?

I do know that the higher the altitude the lower the boiling point is.

Brads Conoco - CONOCO
1075 S.Union Blvd., Lakewood CO
Ethanol-free octane ratings: 91
GPS coordinates: N 39.69713 W 105.12933 (located from address)

Our 91 octane fuel is truly clear NO ETHANOL
Our 87 octane fuel is 6% ethanol
Our 85 octane fuel is 10% ethanol

Posted by Brad, April 13, 2011 11:40 CDT

Info above is from:
http://pure-gas.org/

In the far right column click "details" for additional info that station may have posted.



On our return from the Dallas Meet in 2008 the sedan started having vapor lock. I street rod stopped and suggested premium because of no ethanol it solved the problem. We wrote about it in the Model A Times after the tour in 2008.
 
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