Front brake cylinder help

[Ricosan]

Hey Guys,
Need some held. I have a 1933 wagon with aftermarket Hydrolic brakes
I think these are Lincoln brakes but not sure.
I’m unable to adjust the front brake so I am trying to remove the brake line from the front brakes so that I can remove the wheel cylinder and hone or replace. I am unable to undo the brake line as it wants to twist when I try to disconnect the hose at the back of the wheel cylinder. What am I doing wrong?
Richard

 

[tom1948]

You are doing nothing wrong, the fitting has rusted to the body of the cylinder. 2 methods;1) soak with a good quality penetrating oil for several days, start to work the fitting back and forth until it comes loose.( takes days). 2) gut the cylinder, slowly heat the fitting with a propane torch using a good brake line wrench (ditto for #1) and slowly work it back and forth until it loosens.(quicker) Just my economy deflated 2 cents worth
















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[Ricosan]

Hey Tom,
The nut is loose from the cylinder but I can’t continue to turn it because it begins to twist the hose. Is the brass nut supposed to turn independently of the silver hose clamp?
Richard

 

[FlatheadTed]

You either undo the hose at the other end so it can turn or you undo the wheel cylinders three bolts and turn it .Ted

 

[Flathead Fever]

Exactly what flatheadted said to do. There is nothing rusted together, that nut does not spin independently from the hose, the nut is part of the crimped hose end. You're thinking it works like a steel brake line with a flared fitting or the female fitting on a garden hose.

 

[rich b]

Not sure what you are referring to; but there is no adjustment to a wheel cylinder.

If it's leaking or you have found the pistons to be seized; to remove the wheel cylinder; you need to take off the retract springs, the hold down springs, and the shoes.
Then disconnect the steel line from the hose at the frame mount, remove the retainer clip, remove the hose from the wheel cylinder, and finally unbolt the cylinder.

 

[Ricosan]

Thanks Guys,
Tomorrow I’ll try to disconnect the hose at the frame. I plan to replace both front wheel cylinders. I found some at C & G. Any other sources.
Are these 1939 Lincoln brakes?
Richard

 

[Zeke3]

Not sure what you are referring to; but there is no adjustment to a wheel cylinder.

Your brakes look pretty good, what problem are you having that you want to replace the front wheel cylinders?

 

[Ricosan]

Hey Zeke,
I’ve adjusted the front brakes several times but it still pulls to the left when I apply the brakes. I adjust the shoes so that the wheel stops turning and then back off a few clicks until the wheel just starts moving again.
I put it back on the ground and it’s almost locked up again. I’ve taken the brake shoes off and tried to push the rods in that push the brake shoes out. No go.
I want to take the brake cylinders off so I can either hone or replace.
Richard

 

[wga]

C&G is fine. Stay away from Macs. There are other suppliers that are closer to you - Fla.,
than C&G in California. 3rd Gen Automotive?

 

[Ricosan]

Are these brakes Lincoln or Lockeed? Self energizing?

 

[Kens 36]

Those are Lincoln or Bendix - not Lockheed.

Ken

 

[alchemy]

Those are Lincoln. You can hone without removing the cylinder. Just wipe clean with fresh fluid, then use the pedal to push a little fluid through before reassembling the cups.

Have you adjusted the top anchor? With the drum on and some lug nuts snugged down, loosen the big nut a little, press the pedal to snug the shoes, then see if the anchor moves up or down. Tighten the nut after finding where the anchor wants to be.

 

[marko39]

If you are replacing the wheel cylinders replace the hoses too. Your symptoms are that of a collapsed hose. Had that happen to me on a 90s car with a sticking caliber. Hose looked normal on outside but inside was closed up.

 

[Ricosan]

Got it loose!
These cylinders have less than 800 miles on them but the story I got was that after the restoration was completed the car went immediately into storage where it sat for a number of years.
I see no pitting but it looks like some surface rust on the right side plunger and a little inside the right side of the cylinder. Can I just clean this up with some solvent or do I need to hone?
Richard

 

[rich b]

I would give the bore a light honing to remove the rust along with polishing the rust off the piston.

On the other hand new wheel cylinders are only about $10 on Amazon or RockAuto.

 

[Ggmac]

Ditto what Marco39 said . I would strongly suggest replacing the hoses also . A typical pull from a hose is a hard pull to one side then as you remove your foot it’ll pull a little to the other side .
What’s happening is that the pressure is pushing through a partially plugged hose and going normally to the other wheel cyl , as you release the pressure, the partially blocked hose is still exerting pressure on the wheel cyl , creating a slight pull / drag when you lift your foot .

 

[Ricosan]

Thanks Guys
I have cleaned all the parts to the wheel cylinder and am ready to reinstall.
Questions
1. I’ve read all I can about these brakes but I’m still a bit confused as to which shoe goes to front. I read that on Lincoln brakes the longer shoe goes on the front. I can’t tell which shoe is longer. I plan to reinstall the same orientation as they were removed. Is this correct?
2. Do I need to bleed all four brake cylinders now or can I just bleed the front right brake I am working on?

 

[corvette8n]

Just to be safe I would bleed all the wheel cylinders start with the one farthest from the master. A friend let me borrow a vacuum pump when I changed all the wheel cylinders on my Corvette it speeded up the bleeding process.

 

[alchemy]

Stock Ford brakes of that era have the big shoe forward, the Lincolns have the small shoe forward.