Engine temp rises when I get to cruise speed

Shoebox said:
Been following this from page one,...... any updates?


Thanks!
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Shoebox
I removed the CCI fan/shroud last night and I'm installing a Flex-a-lite puller fan this this weekend. They have a new series that's supposed to put out 3000 cfm.
if this don't work, it's the radiator . I spoke to Lee from Brassworks again yesterday and still he accepts no responsibility so I'm on my own here.

Thanks for asking!
Joe
 
What’s the price of a reputation? $1,000, $1500? $10,000? It’s incalculable the cost in lost business as Brassworks continues to refuse to step up and end this absurdity. Even if Lee stepped forward today, he has still lost tens of thousands of dollars in future business. It just makes good business sense for Brassworks to stop the bleeding right now from his self inflicted wounds.

Richard
 
Ricosan said:
What’s the price of a reputation? $1,000, $1500? $10,000? It’s incalculable the cost in lost business as Brassworks continues to refuse to step up and end this absurdity. Even if Lee stepped forward today, he has still lost tens of thousands of dollars in future business. It just makes good business sense for Brassworks to stop the bleeding right now from his self inflicted wounds.

Richard
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Even if he offered to "meet yah half way" - that would be a fair compromise. But to offer nothing . . . not good.
 
jrvariel48 said:
Shoebox
I removed the CCI fan/shroud last night and I'm installing a Flex-a-lite puller fan this this weekend. They have a new series that's supposed to put out 3000 cfm.
if this don't work, it's the radiator . I spoke to Lee from Brassworks again yesterday and still he accepts no responsibility so I'm on my own here.

Thanks for asking!
Joe
Click to expand...

I don't see how a fan is going to help you at cruise - unless your prior setup had an air restriction due to a shroud. But, time will tell!
 
Can you post a pic of the new puller fan as I thought there was no room for one. If that fan can pull 3000 CFM, then I wound hazard to guess that there should be no issue at cruise or idle. Would be interesting to know what the fan pulls at idle.
 
Ricosan said:
What’s the price of a reputation? $1,000, $1500? $10,000? It’s incalculable the cost in lost business as Brassworks continues to refuse to step up and end this absurdity. Even if Lee stepped forward today, he has still lost tens of thousands of dollars in future business. It just makes good business sense for Brassworks to stop the bleeding right now from his self inflicted wounds.

Richard
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I couldn't agree more Richard. The fact that he wants me to try two fans after I told him I don't want two fans on my car baffles me. I don't care if that solves the problem or not, I shouldn't have to do that. He told me the radiator he built is what I ordered. Even after it said "blown Flathead" on the build sheet he still thinks what he gave me should do the job because "it's better than Ford ever made" What kind of logic is that???!!! That technology was from 1935!!!
He never brought up core size when we put the order together. I relied on him to tell me what I needed and he failed as far as I'm concerned.
I didn't want to mention this, but I will now.
I installed his radiator and drove the car twice for less than 10 total miles total and I noticed the top mount where the firewall rods are tied in, started to tear away from the top tank.
I sent him numerous emails over a two month period and heard NOTHING from him. I pulled the radiator and brought it to get repaired by a well known shop near me which cost $255!!!
When I mentioned that to him yesterday he said " that shouldn't have happened" and that was the end of the conversation.
I already contacted CAR here in jersey for a radiator because this dope WILL NOT take responsibility for "assuming I didn't have enough room because I said I had no room for a puller.
Professional my a$$ I'm waiting for a puller fan to come. It should be here tomorrow
Hopefully I'll have time to install it and take it for a test run.
Thanks Joe
 
Ziggster said:
Can you post a pic of the new puller fan as I thought there was no room for one. If that fan can pull 3000 CFM, then I wound hazard to guess that there should be no issue at cruise or idle. Would be interesting to know what the fan pulls at idle.
Click to expand...

https://flex-a-lite.com/16-inch-flex-wavetm-loboy-electric-fan-puller.html

I would've gone with the Spal, but it was only 2024 cfm. Even if the Flex-a-lite gives me 2200 cfm, it's still more than the Spal. I really never knew I could fit a puller of that size in there. Last night I tried a Spal pusher and to my surprise it fit! I wish I tried that before I spent the $420 on the CCI fan/shroud!!!
Let's hope for the best.
Thanks Joe
 
Beware of aftermarket fans and shrouds. I bought a '51 Ford that had a aftermarket fan and shroud plus air. The air didn't work. I removed the air and left the fan and shroud thinking they would help the cooling. Still ran hot at idle or at speed! Put a piece of paper in front of rad. at idle and it fell off! Took off the aftermarket fan and shroud and guess what, no more overheat!
The fan I used was a stock four blade fan and it will hold a piece of paper tight to the rad. These are just my results, yours may very.
 

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estout81 said:
Beware of aftermarket fans and shrouds. I bought a '51 Ford that had a aftermarket fan and shroud plus air. The air didn't work. I removed the air and left the fan and shroud thinking they would help the cooling. Still ran hot at idle or at speed! Put a piece of paper in front of rad. at idle and it fell off! Took off the aftermarket fan and shroud and guess what, no more overheat!
The fan I used was a stock four blade fan and it will hold a piece of paper tight to the rad. These are just my results, yours may very.
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Excellent!! I hope to get results by Sunday
Thanks for the input!
Joe
 
Joe what lousy a way to spend your summer. Experimenting and spending more money trying to fix a problem that's caused by a very poor quality radiator. What you just wrote about the support rod mount needing repair on a new radiator after only 10 miles that repair expense should have been covered by brassworks.
I can tell you when I experienced an issue with the radiator I received from CAR after many months of use. All they asked I do is have it fixed locally and submit the bill to them. Some company's are interested in service and future sales its obvious brassworks in not one of them.
Ronnieroadster
 
Still not listening. Still not understanding.

High speed overheating is rarely a fan problem and more frequently trapped air which in your case is causing heat soak.

Twice I suggested you remove the shroud, mount the puller fan you have and get numbers. If it improves and you seek more cooling, position the SPAL fan pusher higher and the Cooling components puller fan lower to prevent the heat soak at 50-40 mph (and get more numbers). If you still want more cooling swap the Cooing components for a higher cfm SPAL fan.

We keep talking through this and you told me you would do this twice and you did not do it. You called cooling components and they told you to cut holes in the shroud to free air. You instead fixate on two fans and went on this forum to rant. You also want to buying fans with advertised cfms that likely come from a controlled lab environment and not the real world. Something we discussed and I thought you understood.

I can't help you if you won't listen and when you talk sh*t on this forum about me it makes me not want to. Apologies if this candor offends the delicate sensibilities of the forum.
 
jrvariel48 said:
https://flex-a-lite.com/16-inch-flex-wavetm-loboy-electric-fan-puller.html

I would've gone with the Spal, but it was only 2024 cfm. Even if the Flex-a-lite gives me 2200 cfm, it's still more than the Spal. I really never knew I could fit a puller of that size in there. Last night I tried a Spal pusher and to my surprise it fit! I wish I tried that before I spent the $420 on the CCI fan/shroud!!!
Let's hope for the best.
Thanks Joe
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That’s a really interesting blade design. Never seen anything like it before. I’m not sure about the claims of slicing through the air easier as it has more surface area due to the rippled edge. Remember all these claims of airflow are at 0”H2O static pressure (i.e. no resistance). Those values are really meaningless as all real world scenarios involve some kind of resistance. What’s important is how much air will the fan will move at the corresponding resistance (pressure drop) across the radiator and any other obstructions. You’ll only know once you test it.
 
The Brassworks said:
Still not listening. Still not understanding.

High speed overheating is rarely a fan problem and more frequently trapped air which in your case is causing heat soak.

Twice I suggested you remove the shroud, mount the puller fan you have and get numbers. If it improves and you seek more cooling, position the SPAL fan pusher higher and the Cooling components puller fan lower to prevent the heat soak at 50-40 mph (and get more numbers). If you still want more cooling swap the Cooing components for a higher cfm SPAL fan.

We keep talking through this and you told me you would do this twice and you did not do it. You called cooling components and they told you to cut holes in the shroud to free air. You instead fixate on two fans and went on this forum to rant. You also want to buying fans with advertised cfms that likely come from a controlled lab environment and not the real world. Something we discussed and I thought you understood.

I can't help you if you won't listen and when you talk sh*t on this forum about me it makes me not want to. Apologies if this candor offends the delicate sensibilities of the forum.
Click to expand...
Will you just replace the core for Joe with as big of core as will fit? Simple question
 
ford38v8 said:
A puller fan with a shroud creates a vacuum within the entire shroud.
A pusher fan creates a turbulence beyond the perimeter of the blades that prevents free air flow at those points beyond the perimeter of the blades.
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That is true however the SPAL fan blades are contained inside a 1-1/8" vertical ring and the fan is inside that ring. The pusher fan is mounted flush to the core thereby directing all air through the ring. Air outside the ring is not disrupted by the blade.

The cooling components fan blades are fixed to a ring and that ring is inside the shroud. The entire fan shroud area must be pulled through a ~7/8' gap to get out.
 

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jrvariel48 said:
https://flex-a-lite.com/16-inch-flex-wavetm-loboy-electric-fan-puller.html

I would've gone with the Spal, but it was only 2024 cfm. Even if the Flex-a-lite gives me 2200 cfm, it's still more than the Spal. I really never knew I could fit a puller of that size in there. Last night I tried a Spal pusher and to my surprise it fit! I wish I tried that before I spent the $420 on the CCI fan/shroud!!!
Let's hope for the best.
Thanks Joe
Click to expand...

The SPAL dimensions were all called out on the original order we sent. They're also online everywhere. Why would you be surprised. I offered to send you a fan for trial.

We also had an extensive conversation yesterday about fans and stated/advertised cfms and you elected to go with a flex-a-lite. You went your own way again.

I seriously cannot believe you.
 
Ricosan said:
What’s the price of a reputation? $1,000, $1500? $10,000? It’s incalculable the cost in lost business as Brassworks continues to refuse to step up and end this absurdity. Even if Lee stepped forward today, he has still lost tens of thousands of dollars in future business. It just makes good business sense for Brassworks to stop the bleeding right now from his self inflicted wounds.

Richard
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Thanks for the advice.

We have been trying to help Joe but Joe won't help himself. We have tried from the start but Joe has not listened and won't listen. He has been on this forum ever for a purpose other than getting his engine temperature down 10 degrees.

Perhaps you do not see it but I do.

Pompously yours,

Lee
 
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