Hi, I’m having lots of problems with “new rebuilt” carb I purchased. I’m trying not to be a difficult customer and return what would be the second “ new rebuilt “zenith carb. Long story. Has anyone had any luck soaking a rusty carb to remove rust and what not? My plan is to install it, just to see how the engine will run. Thanks
Rusty Zenith
- Thread starter Gino
- Start date
J Franklin
Well-known member
If you received the new rebuilt carburator rusty, you should send it back. What problems other than rust are you having? What was wrong with the first one? There is a product (evaporust) That doesn't do harm removing corrosion.
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old ugly
Well-known member
maybe using the battery charger/water/arm and hammer so-clean laundry soap.
it will be gentle on the carb and should loosen the rust. after it has been in the bath small wire brush the carb to clean it up.
you will have to disassemble the carb completely before it goes for its bath. while its apart make sure you check and clean all the orifices before reassembly
it will be gentle on the carb and should loosen the rust. after it has been in the bath small wire brush the carb to clean it up.
you will have to disassemble the carb completely before it goes for its bath. while its apart make sure you check and clean all the orifices before reassembly
Big hammer
Well-known member
Pictures please! Rust on the outside or inside? Some rust inside won’t hurt a thing if everything else is good.
Sorry if I was not clear. The first rebuilt carburetor would not stop leaking gas out of the over flow so I had to return it, and the supplier gave me another. So this second rebuilt carb Is not rusty but has a faulty idle screw. I have temporarily secured the idle screw so that Im able to set the idle but the engine is not running smooth. I should point out the engine did run smooth before I put on the second rebuilt carburetor. So you see Im beginning to wonder if the Rebuilder is qualified or are the parts in question. I happen to have an extra Zenith carburetor that has some rust on the inside. I also happen to have a new kit to rebuild a carburetor. Im thinking if I can do a semi rebuild and install it and the engine runs smooth again Ill know its the second rebuilt carb I purchased. Im very new to S. Carolina and dont know anyone who could let me borrow a carb to figure this out. Hope Im explaining this right. I dont think I ever did better than a B in English. Thanks
old ugly
Well-known member
Gino - I see that you've posed several questions here:
1. Should a customer tolerate rust and a faulty idle screw (not clear what that means) in what was portrayed as a rebuild? No, absolutely not. The rebuilding process assumes a thorough cleaning, derusting and replacement of parts as necessary. And if you have significant rust visible, who knows what the condition of the internal air passages is. Don't feel bad about returning it. But if you've gotten two defective rebuilds back to back perhaps it's time to get another supplier.
2. Can you tolerate a bit of rust in the bowl and other internals? Yes. Tom Endy's article that Old Ugly referred to is a good place to start to get perspective.
3. Can you remove (or a better term, convert) rust? Yes. I've had good luck using Evaporust on rusty carb bodies. You need to completely strip the casting, let it soak thoroughly, scrub, possibly repeat a few times (rust penetrating into a rough casting will not always convert the first time) and then reassemble. But at that point you are doing the rebuild yourself, which is what you paid your supplier to do.
Doing a full rebuild on a Zenith can take a couple of hours and parts, especially labor if you include painting with fuel-proof paint. Figure in the cost of labor and parts and if you think you're getting a great bargain, it's probably too good to be true. The regular reputable vendors charge on the order of ~$300 for a rebuild, so use that as a comparison.
Good luck.
JayJay
1. Should a customer tolerate rust and a faulty idle screw (not clear what that means) in what was portrayed as a rebuild? No, absolutely not. The rebuilding process assumes a thorough cleaning, derusting and replacement of parts as necessary. And if you have significant rust visible, who knows what the condition of the internal air passages is. Don't feel bad about returning it. But if you've gotten two defective rebuilds back to back perhaps it's time to get another supplier.
2. Can you tolerate a bit of rust in the bowl and other internals? Yes. Tom Endy's article that Old Ugly referred to is a good place to start to get perspective.
3. Can you remove (or a better term, convert) rust? Yes. I've had good luck using Evaporust on rusty carb bodies. You need to completely strip the casting, let it soak thoroughly, scrub, possibly repeat a few times (rust penetrating into a rough casting will not always convert the first time) and then reassemble. But at that point you are doing the rebuild yourself, which is what you paid your supplier to do.
Doing a full rebuild on a Zenith can take a couple of hours and parts, especially labor if you include painting with fuel-proof paint. Figure in the cost of labor and parts and if you think you're getting a great bargain, it's probably too good to be true. The regular reputable vendors charge on the order of ~$300 for a rebuild, so use that as a comparison.
Good luck.
JayJay
I looked into this product a while back... chelating is pronounced (keelayting)
I was thinking that EvapoRust was a chelating process??? The chemistry is far above my pay grade, but it's my understanding that the rust is turned into something water soluble and is removed when you remove the EvapoRust liquid. It is not converted to something inert / benign and left behind????? I think there are some paints that do that and might be used on the frame and running gear of an A.
I'm hoping someone with the chemistry background will put this in layman terms for us, please. Curious minds wanna know.
I was thinking that EvapoRust was a chelating process??? The chemistry is far above my pay grade, but it's my understanding that the rust is turned into something water soluble and is removed when you remove the EvapoRust liquid. It is not converted to something inert / benign and left behind????? I think there are some paints that do that and might be used on the frame and running gear of an A.
I'm hoping someone with the chemistry background will put this in layman terms for us, please. Curious minds wanna know.
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Brentwood Bob
Well-known member
Another issue I have run into is running dirty fuel. Doesn't take much to plug things up.
Hi, carburetor is going back Monday. I paid about $325 for it. I don’t know how much other suppliers are asking. Melvin’s Classic ford Parts wants about $200 more for brand new. I have purchased 2 new carburetors for a 65 Falcon recently. One is complete junk, the other has a leak issue, so I skeptical about a new A carb that might be built is China.
McMimmcs
Well-known member
This man knows what he is saying. Follow his advice.
