Media blast?

Jims52F1

Jims52F1

Member
Is it safe to media blast the intake manifold and just the exterior surface of heads on a EAB engine? Also, I have been looking at parts to convert to 12 volt and several areas mention GM distributor and generator and other electrical parts. Is this General Motors equipment that was used in Ford or is it just my rookie stupidity showing through? Was going to media blast in cabinet after removal from block so could wash good before putting back on block.
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I would not bead blast an assembled, running engine. Too great a risk of beads getting where you don't want them.

Sorry, I missed the part about removing the parts.
 
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DO NOT USE CONCRETE BLOCKS to support your vehicle,

they are extremely weak in the direction shown in your picture. Use wood instead or get taller jack stands.
 
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Thanks for suggestion about concrete blocks. Will definitely work on that.


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In my younger days I had a Concrete block crack & crush.
They are dangerous & I would replace with neatly cut Yellow pine blocks

Please don’t dally on this.
 
Zeke3…a good call…I was looking at the pic and was going to advise the same….then saw you already spoke up….had a high school auto shop teacher that was the best…WW2 aircraft mechanic…knew his stuff….but always worried what his boys were doing at home without his supervision…the concrete block advise was repeated regularly….his name was Mr Ford….
Really…..imagine that
 
Will put tires back on first thing in the AM and get off concrete blocks. Thanks to everyone for the heads up. Maybe someone will address the use of GM on electrical items I asked about. Appreciate the advice!


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The GM distributor is a custom retrofit that a lot of guys do - to put older Mallory distributors or later standard SBC ones into a 49-53 flathead (like yours). The Chevy SBC base is turned down on a lathe to match a flathead and the advance mechanism is setup/modified to reduce the total mechanical advance (there are a variety of ways to do this). Contact 'Charlie NY' on this board - he does great work and may even have one on the shelf.

As others mentioned, don't bead blast on an assembled engine. Pull the heads, pull the intake and I'd probably pull the pan as well. If this engine has been sitting, then it will most likely have a bunch of sludge and crud in the pan. Might as well clean it out (and clean out the oil pump and screen). You don't want top pump all that crap through the bearings. Back in the day the non-detergent oil created a TON of sludge - you need to clean that out. Then you "purdy up" these parts while they are off and put everything back together.

If the engine has sat for a long time, you can inspect the bores, check the valves, etc.. In some cases, everything is cool - in others you may find it needs some work. You won't know until you look!

Gaskets: Buy the 'Best Gasket' line of gaskets - guys like ThirdGen Auto and Mac VanPelt on this site have all the parts you'll need.
 
Concrete blocks are made to use with voids vertical not horizontal as you have them, you are loosing their strength and will break, very dangerous.
 
Half the fun of owning a Flathead is taking it apart, you might be surprised how much gunk is in the lifter gallery and in the bottom of the pan. When I drained the oil on my first flathead pieces of rings came out of the drain. My Dad and I then did a driveway rebuild, rings, rod bearings, 2 new pistons gaskets and a borrowed hone, that was in 1964.
 
Any chance you have access to a soda blaster? I would not use media since it's very course and will get inside the motor causing havoc.

I bought a hand held soda blaster (baking soda is media used) and it is surprising effective.
 
Thanks again for all the great recommendations. Taking off the concrete blocks this AM. Yes I am planning on pulling off heads and intake. Have bought gaskets to pull oil pan and replace oil in ****** and differential. Gaskets cam from VanPelt. You guys are great help! I appreciate ya!


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Jims52F1 said:
Thanks again for all the great recommendations. Taking off the concrete blocks this AM. Yes I am planning on pulling off heads and intake. Have bought gaskets to pull oil pan and replace oil in ****** and differential. Gaskets cam from VanPelt. You guys are great help! I appreciate ya!


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I don't think I read your original post properly. You are going to blast these parts off of the engine, right? If so, make sure you clean them afterward with soapy water and dry immediately. Depending on the media, it can leave behind course "dust" that can be real abrasive.

If you can get crushed walnut shells, that would be best. Harbor Freight sells it cheap.
 
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zeke3 said:
do not use concrete blocks to support your vehicle,

they are extremely weak in the direction shown in your picture. Use wood instead or get taller jack stands.
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extremely accurate advice!
 
Truck back on all 4 tires. Thanks for all the good advice about concrete blocks. What you don’t know can damage your project or you! Good to have an army of people looking out for you and grandpas old 52!


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One of the early things I learned the hard way in this hobby is shop safety. I was removing a king pin when a shard of metal embedded in my arm. It was a major ordeal to have it removed but fortunately it was not my eye. You will not catch me doing much of anything to our old truck now without wearing safety glasses.

There was a guy here locally that was killed last year when an engine he was removing fell on him. Good stuff on the concrete blocks.

JB
 
Yes it is safe to blast the parts in a cabinet because you will be able to thoroughly clean them before reinstalling.
The question is..... What do mean by "media"? Media usually refers to the plastic blasting material used at high pressure typically used to strip assembled cars of paint only.
"Media" is not aggressive much at all. It will not remove rust and corrosion etc.
You should probably consider glass bead or sand or grit of some sort to clean up the parts mentioned. Glass being the least aggressive of those mentioned.
 
Glass bead was going to be my choice. Almost 70 years of dirt and rust you know. Thanks for the answer.


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flathead48 said:
Concrete blocks are made to use with voids vertical not horizontal as you have them, you are loosing their strength and will break, very dangerous.
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That is correct. If one takes a look at the properties of a concrete block, technically known as a CMU (Concrete Masonry Unit), compressive strength varies. Typically the MINIMUM compressive net strength (meaning actual surface area) is 1900 lbs/psi (Source: ASTM C90). In the OP's post the CMU is oriented with the voids horizontally which is not the intended orientation of its strength. Now if one looks at the loading and assuming the CMU is oriented correctly we can do a few calculations. Let's assume (safely) total load of the vehicle is 4000 lbs. Therefore 4000 lbs divided by (4) bearing points (each tire on the ground) = 1000 lbs. This is well below the minimum strength of each CMU. Required on top of each CMU would be a minimum 2x8x16 to disperse the load of the each jack stand evenly. The big problem with any CMU is fracture, typically by a shock load, i.e. dropped, getting hit by something or freeze cracks. If a crack exists the strength is compromised. Therefore, in my opinion, should one choose a CMU for blocking a vehicle up careful inspection of the material and not relying on it for one's only means of support would be paramount.
 
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