Air Filter

F

Flyboy1st

Member
Anybody make their own air cleaner for the zenith carb? I was looking at K&N too brain storm how to do it. Maybe PVC, Hose, clamps and clamped on filter.
 
I guess you could make an air filter out of anything. But why bother. I have a K&N and it works fine out of the box.
 
katy said:
I bought one from Red Quail and within about 25 miles it fell off and got lost.
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I'm guessing you don't have engine pans?

While mine has never fallen off I can imagine the engine pans would keep it from getting lost. Just sayin'.

I have one from Snyder's, which I believe is the same one made by Red Quail.
 
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I want a K&N, what filter did you use? I was looking at them and hoping someone has made their own using K&N filters.
old31 said:
I guess you could make an air filter out of anything. But why bother. I have a K&N and it works fine out of the box.
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Keep in mind that an updraft Zenith carburetor will leak fuel at some time and if you have a filter mounted to it, it may become saturated with fuel. If the engine should backfire on start up because the spark advance lever was left in the down position the filter material may light off.

Tom Endy
 
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I have one similar to the updraft red quail made from 2 copper pipe elbows and a nitrile rubber type sleeve to the carb with hose clamps. Hasn't fallen off yet. The filter is a K&N type 5" tall but have no part no. A 3" dia. x 5"h or greater tall filter usually won't restrict air flow like the Airmaze can.
 
SAJ said:
Here is a link to a post on KandN filter I fitted to my RHD
Model B carb. It works well, mixture is light tan on plugs with 1/4 turn open on GAV, carb is not balanced for vacuum.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209736
SAJ in NZ
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Thanks for that, Stuart. When I make an air box, it is usually out of fibre gless and when I do a metal one, I use exhaust pipe. To get a sharp bend, I cut a vee, bend and weld it closed. For the fibreglass ones, I make a core out of polystyrene, coat it with PVA and let it dry thoroughly. I then put the matting and resin over that and once finished, I remove the core by sloshing a little petrol in there. Sometimes the air box does a U turn under the carby, then upwards to the filter mounted on the radiator stays. They are easier in FG. Other times it comes out between the steering column and the choke rod, then up to the air cleaner in the same place.
I have tried to put a B carburettor on an A engine but the steering column prevented it. Determined, I shortened the verticle tube of the inlet manifold and reattached the flange but with a bit of a twist so the intake cleared the steering box. That meant the choke rod wouldn't line up so I moved the knob to the left of the steering column and put a little universal joint in the choke rod just above the floor (I made my own steering column support bracket to accomodte it). That worked a treat.
I can understand why the American vendors don't sell this sort of stuff for RHD cars because we have all found our own solutions and therefore don't need one of theirs.
 
Interesting Synchro. My wife's Tudor with standard rear eng mount cleared the B carb by 3/16 inch, allowing the 24 gauge rolled airbox spigot to fit closely on the inlet stub with about 1/8 inch clearance to the 2 tooth steering tube. But my 1930 Roadster with 2 tooth box fitted and new FAM rubbers would not clear. I packed the RH bottom FAM rubber up by 5 mm twisting the motor slightly in the chassis I think from memory. It has rubber front mounts too and I think I packed the front RH one up too. I have worked on so many other cars for the club I cannot remember. Anyway this gave about 1/8 clearance to the steering tube. I suspect every car us slightly different which is why you could not fit a B carb to yours Arnold without the mods you did.
Since I manufacture fibreglass resins I suppose I should make some f glass ones as you suggest for the club. The steel intakes take me several hours to make and fit.
SAJ in NZ
 
This is the K&N that I have. It measures 3-3/8 long. I have had it a while and don't remember where I bought it.

Red Quail. They have the best fuel filters I have ever tried. A little more expensive but they are great. They are longer than NAPA, Snyders, Brattons and the top gasket fits the top holes of the filter better than the others.
 

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This is the Hi-Boy filter on my '29 roadster. I used repop Model-A hose clamps painted flat black with brass screws on the filter. They make it more
"antiquey" looking to me.;)


Bob-A:D
 

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Bob-A said:
This is the Hi-Boy filter on my '29 roadster. I used repop Model-A hose clamps painted flat black with brass screws on the filter. They make it more
"antiquey" looking to me.;)


Bob-A:D
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My first thought on seeing that manifold was: Is the carburettor sitting higher? That might be a solution but then I saw that there is no provision for the distributor advance rod. That could probably be overcome so I ask: "Does the carburettor sit higher than with the original manifold?" I kinda doubt it or the GAV/choke rod wouldn't line up.
 
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