1954 Ranch Wagon Parts ID

Thank you!

You are quite welcome.

I think the insulator assy you are asking about is here -

BM 7001670-A

The complete assy is not shown (or I cannot find it) and you have to piece it together.
 

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There is a 302/AOD in my car. What I don't like is the angle of the motor/trans and the lack of clearance at the firewall. There is a lot of room between the fan and radiator. If the motor was carbureted, it would need one of those angled spacers at the intake manifold. I have yet to take measurements of the driveshaft angle. The motor is FI and the harness may have come with original motor, however the computer part number reads manual trans. My trans has a tv cable on it. The harness was not stripped down for the basic operation of the motor only.
I would have set up the engine mounts and wiring differently.
 
There is a 302/AOD in my car. What I don't like is the angle of the motor/trans and the lack of clearance at the firewall. There is a lot of room between the fan and radiator. If the motor was carbureted, it would need one of those angled spacers at the intake manifold. I have yet to take measurements of the driveshaft angle.

The motor is FI and the harness may have come with original motor, however the computer part number reads manual trans. My trans has a tv cable on it. The harness was not stripped down for the basic operation of the motor only.

I would have set up the engine mounts and wiring differently.

You're most likely OK with the ECM used. Usually for a EEC-IV conversion, a MANUAL TRANS ECM (electronic control module) is used as the AOD is not an electronic trans. The ECM is usually re-burned to eliminate certain emissions control circuits. Was the engine de-smoged?

Did they put a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) on the car?

Did you ever post photos of the engine conversion? The engine should sit in the cradle normally.
 
However, what I found like : the motor alone is 150 pounds less in weight with more power. I can't remember the weight loss for trans, this set up lasts longer in miles and less trouble.. It takes a bit to get the almost 2 ton vehicle moving!! The front of the vehicle may ride a bit higher.

Hi Kultulz! There is an operational MIL, check engine light hanging just below and back of the dash. I removed the EGR, placed a cover on and a bypass for the wiring. Before installing the wire bypass, the check engine light was on. There is an OBD1, yes 1 port which I have yet to read with my purchase of a Reader OBD1.

Leaving for home this weekend, will post photos of engine compartment for the above engine swap. This is the only photo of the engine compartment on my IPad here. There is room behind the motor but I'd prefer more just to find out the layout of the vacuum lines. Don't know yet what the black item is, perhaps for the fuel operating system. There are exhaust readers in the pipes. (I get 14 mpg on a good day.)
 

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Don't know yet what the black item is, perhaps for the fuel operating system. There are exhaust readers in the pipes. (I get 14 mpg on a good day.)


It appears to be a MAP SENSOR. There should be ID Nos on the top.

By any chance did you record the ECM ID NOS?
 
The panel where the fastener is mounted, does it appear as OEM or appear as a patch plate used maybe due to stress cracks?


407510


About what size would you would say the rubber insulator assy is?

No problem KUL ... :D

Below is a photo of a 54 CRESTLINE which appears correct
 

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Kultulz here's a photo of my ECM

51504bat, were you on the Force? My ECM is mounted on the passenger side wall kick area and covered by a trim panel.

The side black box contains the fuses, and relay for fuel shut off.

The OBD1 port is here also.
 

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"Don't know yet what the black item is, perhaps for the fuel operating system. There are exhaust readers in the pipes. (I get 14 mpg on a good day.) "




Jawhite, that black box is a MAP sensor as KULTULZ said. (Manifold Absolute Pressure). The nipple on it that is pointing downward, needs a vacuum hose on it from the intake manifold. With it the way it is, I would expect it's using way too much fuel.


Sal
 
scicala,
I think it is hooked up correct for a mas air system. That only hooks to manifold on speed density system.
 
You might check here in this problem 1954fordclub.com There are a number of guys that have a 302 in their 54's


There is a 302/AOD in my car. What I don't like is the angle of the motor/trans and the lack of clearance at the firewall. There is a lot of room between the fan and radiator. If the motor was carbureted, it would need one of those angled spacers at the intake manifold. I have yet to take measurements of the driveshaft angle. The motor is FI and the harness may have come with original motor, however the computer part number reads manual trans. My trans has a tv cable on it. The harness was not stripped down for the basic operation of the motor only.
I would have set up the engine mounts and wiring differently.
 
scicala,
I think it is hooked up correct for a mas air system. That only hooks to manifold on speed density system.



Estout81,


I had a little memory hitch. Thanks for catching me. I forgot about mass air systems compared to speed density systems. I was thinking speed density system.
If it has mass air, then it stays as pictured.


Sal
 
"5150" someone call the Po-Po

Here are some photos that may give you some insight into installation of your 302.

Motor mounts, underneath car showing gap between fan and radiator, shift linkage w/o Heim joint.... space between firewall and motor, space of fan and radiator looking down at motor.
 

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JeffB Posted @
hotrodders_logo_white.jpg


I moderate the 52-56 Ford owners group on the HAMB,many of us have done SBF swaps in these Fords,I have a '54 Customline with a 5.0 and AOD so here is the real deal on mounts, you can use 1977 Ford F-150 mounts and they will drop right into place,an AOD or C-4 will line up with the 54-56 transmission crossmember, use a Geniuine Suspension transmission mount (see pic#1) my AOD is hooked up to the stock rear using a 1986 Crown Vic drive shaft using a NEAPCO conversion u-joint to mate it to the '54 rear(pic#2).

The 289-302-5.0 swap is best to do because the exhaust manifolds are very close to the A-frames and steering box the added width of the 351W will make for a challenge,oddly enough the FE motors would fit better than the 351 due to manifold placement,here is a pic of my Ford note the clearance to the steering box.

Also you must use a front sump pan like 65-68 Mustang.You can see I used a mini-starter from DB Electrical for even more clearance to the exhaust,there are a few more tricks to make this an easier swap,feel free to pm me for info.I see that I responded to an old post but there are more of these Fords getting noticed lately so now info is out there.

SOURCE - https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/55-ford-fairlane-engine-trans-swap-83526.html


Now this (IMO) is the way a SBF should sit in a 54/56 cradle (minus scubby DIST).
 

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Yes, that's the way a motor should sit in the cradle! How is the driveshaft angle to the differential?
 
Yes, that's the way a motor should sit in the cradle! How is the driveshaft angle to the differential?


:confused:

You know something? The way your engine was installed ... :( ... may have thrown off the angle you are referring to. Final engine to pinion angle may be way off.
 
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