Preservation vs Restoration

Go the preservation route then if doesn't suit you restore it. You can always restore but you can never go back!
 
If you are buying it as an investment expecting to make money on it, leave it as is. The more money you put in, the less likely you will get it back out in most cases. However, if you are buying it because you want it, then do whatever will make you enjoy it the most.
 
"Restored"? just what does that mean? a 3 color car with wide whites and turn signals?.Modifications 'for touring' allowed?.There was a time when 'restoring' model a's and racing Hubley cars was in fashion,nowadays the clubs are geriatric,cant tell you how many younger owners come to one meeting and never return..Look no further than the hotrod pages on facebook,the guys needed to keep the hobby alive..30 to 50 somethings with money..are buying older restorations and hotrodding them.The new blood didn't have a father regale them with stories of 5 dollar A's run on drain oil..nope,they see sexy,and a 3 color model a with wide whites driven by a guy with velcro sneakers aint sexy..Get hip,the patina cars and modifieds are the way of the future.Bangers,FAST and TROG are where the future lies,the only hope for a dying tradition..model A's with stock components need to evolve,or they all will fall to the saw..
 
Post 6, Paul; I am doing a CCPU the same as what you are doing except I can't bring myself to change to a Weber or Hydraulic brakes. The brake question has been addressed here many times but the wheels can only slide just so hard regardless of how you accomplish it. I would suggest that you look into using tongue oil and turpentine with four ought steel wool over the rusty finish. Patina 101. Good luck, Jack
 
IMHO, an original car is only original once-despite its flaws versus of what it was when new, it shows age and normal wear "patina" which gives it a unique persona of yesteryear. The car you are referring to, if the MAFCA ad, has been repainted many years ago and has an aftermarket engine in it as I understand...so its not a candidate for a patina as we may view it. However, if you want to restore a car, the very best original condition, without rust out, is always best IMHO.
 
I would think that what really matters is making you happy. No matter what you do there will be people agreeing and disagreeing. That’s just life.

A very well cared for Model A, that is priced right, will be able to find a new home.

There are a lot of Model A’s and there is a lot of junk out there. I would get all the mechanicals in good order and go from there.

I always tell people that’s it’s a hobby. Something like owning a boat. The reason we have them is for enjoyment. If your looking at it as an investment? I would recommend you look someplace else. Enjoy.
 
vern hodgson said:
I would define original as what came off the factory floor and out the door. Wear and tear are what happens to “original” equipment during its service life until the factory part is no longer functioning. Worn original seat fabric is still original, off the factory floor, not a replacement. In my humble opinion.
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As has been pointed out in this thread, "original" means different things to different people. I agree it means what came out of the factory but my definition ends there. Seat upholstery with a hole worn in it may have been originally installed in the car but it is no longer as it left the factory.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Much "PATINA" is attributed to some LAZY BUM, that won't clean his car!!!----NLOL
Most of the rhetoric I've read is the SAME Old B.S. that has been REPEATED & REPEATED!!!
Get a LIFE, & start a fresh train of thought, on the subject!!!
Bill Bored
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Well, nobody twisted your arm to make you read it but feel free to add that fresh train of thought. :D
 
I think its all subjective. To me restoration can be preservation. To replace worn out pieces with new pieces keeps the vehicle running and around for many more years.

With talk about history of the vehicle. I think if you take a decent car and restore it is making your own history and the next possible owner could feel the same way about preserving it.

With my grandfather's truck that I have now I plan to keep it the way it looks as long as possible. But that is because I have my own history with the vehicle. I will fix/repair what needs to be fixed. The one thing I plan to keep completely off limits is the writing on the side. Getting the cab repainted, redoing the engine, or any other updates wouldn't bother me. If I didn't have a connection to it I would want my own history to be made that I can enjoy. A vehicle's history may not be known to you and all you are left to do is wonder about it.

Fix it, change it, add to that history.
 
Paul Bjarnason said:
I would definitely leave a decent unrestored car in original unrestored condition. I find fully restored older cars boring because they appear to have been cleansed of their history. I like some patina. I am currently working on the '29 Tudor which was my wife's grand father's car, bought new in 1929. Many people would say it badly needs a paint job and some fenders, but I am going to straighten out the bumps, clean off the rust and put on a coat of Johnson's paste wax. Full mechanical resto and some upgrades, like hydraulic brakes and Weber carb. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, however -- and, it's your car. Do what will make you like it the most.
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Interesting how we all sit. I agree with you keeping the patina and that over restored cars can sometimes appear cleansed of their history . But is installing hydraulic brakes and a Weber carb not also messing with the cars history ? And the next question is why? As someone who has owned, restored (and not restored ) as well as driven multiple A's I can tell you that properly set up original brakes are as good as Hydraulics and there is nothing wrong with the original carb if put together and set up properly.

But as you say beauty is the eye of the beholder and it is your car.

Karl
 
Do not know why, but am usually drawn to the "imperfect" A's. Guess I like seeing the bumps/bruises, imperfect paint, etc. and wonder how they got that way. And also marvel at how 90 year old, rusty, leaky parts are still somewhat functional.


I like the restored ones too, but not trained to notice the intricacies of what is a high point restoration, or notice different methods used to restore or make them look new. They are still beautiful though.
 
Karl said:
Interesting how we all sit. I agree with you keeping the patina and that over restored cars can sometimes appear cleansed of their history . But is installing hydraulic brakes and a Weber carb not also messing with the cars history ? And the next question is why? As someone who has owned, restored (and not restored ) as well as driven multiple A's I can tell you that properly set up original brakes are as good as Hydraulics and there is nothing wrong with the original carb if put together and set up properly.

But as you say beauty is the eye of the beholder and it is your car.

Karl
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Properly adjusted mechanical brakes will slide all four wheels. Properly adjusted hydraulic brakes will slide all four wheels. Seems to be just a matter of personal preference!
I will add that a hydraulic conversion with a dual master cylinder that is not properly set up will lose all its brakes with just a small leak in either front OR rear.
 
40 Deluxe said:
Properly adjusted mechanical brakes will slide all four wheels. Properly adjusted hydraulic brakes will slide all four wheels. Seems to be just a matter of personal preference!
I will add that a hydraulic conversion with a dual master cylinder that is not properly set up will lose all its brakes with just a small leak in either front OR rear.
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Isn't the point of a dual master cylinder to make sure that can't happen. Did you mean to say "without" a dual naster cylinder?
 
Synchro909 said:
Isn't the point of a dual master cylinder to make sure that can't happen. Did you mean to say "without" a dual naster cylinder?
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I did mean a dual master cylinder. The problem is that total pedal travel has to be the same as original or the pedal will hit the floor before the brakes are applied in case of a leak. If you've ever blown a hose, you noticed that the pedal went to about an inch off the floor before you had any brakes! That is normal.
If a dual master is mounted in an early car and has less pedal travel than OEM or pedal ratio is different, the pedal will likely hit the floor before you have any brakes!
 
Enclosed is a pic of my '31 deluxe roadster: Virginia. From what I know of her history. She was "refurbished" in the early 50's. A "B" block was added,
also paint, top/side curtains and maybe the interior. On the driver's side door post is an oil change sticker from 1957, showing about 90,000 some miles.
The odometer still works and now shows around 110,000. I've completely
rebuild the brakes and done some other needed mechanics. To keep the car

save to drive. Unfortunately, the interior was completely shot. A friend of mine redid it for me. Not authentic, but it looks right. I'm thinking of selling her. I want a nice older restored "A". One I can put a lot of miles on and

not worry about losing its originality.



Bob-A:D
 

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