One thing to think about is to modify the ends of the headers (to direct the flow) and to weld 2-bolt flanges onto the ends - such that you can bolt-up the extension pipes to the mufflers.
I have no idea why Sandy Belond and everybody else makes these headers with a 'slip fit' type of connector - as they always leak and if you actually tighten the slip-fit enough to prevent leaks, then you can never get them to 'slip off'. It appears to me that Belond "did it this way" - so everybody since has copied him . . . nobody does this on any other set of automotive headers.
I made these modifications on my last set of custom headers for my 32 Cab (see below) - (they originated with Havlir) - though I've also done it on original Belonds, and would do it on anything I put on. It takes a bit of time and you may want to modify the ends of the headers with 90 degree 'turn-downs' (whatever you need to direct the flow).
I've found no rhyme or reason for where most of the headers dump the exhaust (especially on the driver's side) - in many cases the outlets align with absolutely NOTHING in the frame - so you end up going through all sorts of ugly "muffler shop" gyrations trying to get a decent looking exhaust system - one that can be easily removed/serviced. Usually you end up with ugly muffler shop bends and routings that are less than optimal.
Take the time to modify them on the front end, then have them ceramic coated - THEN go to the muffler shop.
Note: I put EGT bungs in these and 02 bungs in the tail pipes - I use this for Stromberg carb tuning.
Also, I'm running straight pipes out the side on this engine - and YES, it is loud . . . just the way I want it. LOL
Good luck,
B&S
Driver's Side - nice and clean, out of the way of everything - stock steering, stock mechanical brakes, etc..
You can see the O2 bung here - with a plug in it:
