bearing insert identification help...
- Thread starter hardtimes
- Start date
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
so most likely they are ,010 undersaized
is it just 1 bearing at the mains or are there several in a row (how wide are the inserts)
what is the size of the bore in the block
what is the size of the crankshaft
can you take pictures and post them
to look them up you need the sizes---block bore, crankshaft, width ---there are some charts of bearings that were "made to work"
is it just 1 bearing at the mains or are there several in a row (how wide are the inserts)
what is the size of the bore in the block
what is the size of the crankshaft
can you take pictures and post them
to look them up you need the sizes---block bore, crankshaft, width ---there are some charts of bearings that were "made to work"
Railcarmover
BANNED
Federal Mogul 2531 crosses to a CAT 8N8226 off highway truck rod bearing...what are you working on ?
hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Railcarmover,
Well, I happen to 'fall into' a B block, more specifically a newly rebuilt B block which was made into a new short block and put on the shelf decades ago. Owner, auto shop teacher/high school, died about ten yrs ago and son-in -law selling off his FIL's extensive model a collection. I thought that I'd 'paid enough' for what I got....and told the gentleman that 'I don't need another block', as I loaded stuff on my vehicle. He said, well I don't want it left here, so take it with the other stuff paid for
!Then I took a closer look at the block and realized that I'd been making a mistake, if I passed on it and didn't get it. The cross hatch shown brightly yet in the cylinders ! New pistons, timing gears and I thought a 'plain' B/C crank. This was just prior to New Year. Today , I worked it all day while it rained here !! Found new standard pistons, cam looks to have different than B grind; 1.8 intakes; ported and bowls blended; new dist/cam gear; excellent C head and side plate drilled for fitting full pressure. Perfect B pan that has been prepared so that a V8 trans set up can be used easily with adaptor. And, when I took off bearing caps..viola....drilled C crank with rod and main inserts and #1 and #2 custom main caps !! So, trying to decide what to do with an extra improved B short block...dilemma, eh
!So, asking about rod bearing insert info first, as that's what I got off. Mabe main caps tomorrow. Good info to have with block.
Question for you. I'm familiar with warming up B blocks. This guy left the rod dippers on the caps, rather than take them off. That a bit unusual, isn't it , with a full pressure system
Thank you much for that great bearing info and cross reference
! That will definitely be put with block info.
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hardtimes
Well-known member
Hey Kurt,
Just rod caps of today. I bearing set per rod.
Standard bore/std pistons.
Drilled C crank with .010 rods. Mains size maybe checked tomo.
Here are a few pictures , for you, that I took today.
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Railcarmover
BANNED
Im going to say that dippers are the fastest way to get oil to the rod bearing,then they lose the 'fight' when pressure builds..if that adds up its a good idea then,figure the oil under pressure would have to counter act the dipper 'pressure' so the leakage of pressurized oil wouldnt be that bad,.if that makes sense.
My B is an early,home made counterweights on the crank (quality weldons),big ends of the rods turned down,sleeved .080 over..cam is a fuel pump lobe B,appears to be unground yet has only .270 total lift..engine had a Winfield red head but the PO took it off and sold it before I got the rest..check out the rod...
interesting huh?
My B is an early,home made counterweights on the crank (quality weldons),big ends of the rods turned down,sleeved .080 over..cam is a fuel pump lobe B,appears to be unground yet has only .270 total lift..engine had a Winfield red head but the PO took it off and sold it before I got the rest..check out the rod...
interesting huh?
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hardtimes
Well-known member
Im going to say that dippers are the fastest way to get oil to the rod bearing,then they lose the 'fight' when pressure builds..if that adds up its a good idea then,figure the oil under pressure would have to counter act the dipper 'pressure' so the leakage of pressurized oil wouldnt be that bad,.if that makes sense.
My B is an early,home made counterweights on the crank (quality weldons),big ends of the rods turned down,sleeved .080 over..cam is a fuel pump lobe B,appears to be unground yet has only .270 total lift..engine had a Winfield red head but the PO took it off and sold it before I got the rest..check out the rod...
interesting huh?
Yeah, interesting. Never cease to be amazed at what's done to 'customize' stuff.
hardtimes
Well-known member
I just now re-read your first paragraph. Although the dippers are still on caps, the insert bearings are NOT drilled to let oil in or out from the dipper ! So, the splash dipper will throw oil around (towards cam) as it normally would, but usually, in my experience, the dipper is treated as extra weight to be taken off the cap. Sorry for the confusion of not explaining this first time. Think I'll leave them on , for next guy to deal with if he wants, as for me to take them off now...will entail rebalancing act.
Railcarmover
BANNED
Its all good,the dipper rain shower has value. I would think if the dipper port was drilled into the insert it wouldn't hurt,hell it might help.In operation the dipper never starves,it would provide instant lubrication on start up and shouldnt have much impact on the pressure feed,the dipper is constantly forcing oil into the bearing,granted your not developing high oil pressure the dipper should compliment the system.
Windage is a potential issue,if your turning high pressure the dipper just adds resistance.
Windage is a potential issue,if your turning high pressure the dipper just adds resistance.
hardtimes
Well-known member
I agree with your assessment
.Except that my B pans do not have dipper trays, usually. So, dipper would be superfluous weight. I remove tray (with full oil pressure system) and add an oil 'damming' system, which is designed to keep a good supply of oil around the pump pickup. Especially upon hard acceleration and / or hard cornering. Since this pan was already missing the dipper tray, and made for full oil pressure, I figure that the old timer possibly had the same thing in mind, but didn't get around to removing the dippers.
Railcarmover
BANNED
Well that should fetch a fair price,and a satisfied customer. The glyptol is a nice touch.
hardtimes
Well-known member
Ok, need your assistance again with MAIN bearing shells this time.
See pictures: #2215A 2cr .010
Does anyone notice anything different/out of ordinary in these pics
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johnneilson
Well-known member
the other way to id bearings is to measure the bore in the housing, then look up specs.
just looking at them, probably Buda diesel rod inserts.
just looking at them, probably Buda diesel rod inserts.
Railcarmover
BANNED
Did you pull the main caps?..post up a picture of the bearing shell where the part number is.
hardtimes
Well-known member
I'll put up another picture of the shell with part number, maybe tomorrow morning. Thanks.
Couldn't get these pics to upload earlier today...go figure.
Anyway, here are some pictures of REAR main with two sets of bearing shells. Id numbers that I gave are on shell end opposite of the tangs.
Anyone know why the 'black/maybe blue' dark coloring on the cap ? Never seen that before ?
Does the RADIUS /radii where cheek meets pin look sufficient to you guys ?
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hardtimes
Well-known member
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
So far things look pretty good other than the light surface rust on the front of the crank, but I'm not seeing your thrust bearings.
George Miller
Well-known member
It may be on the center main. some use to do that years ago.
Railcarmover
BANNED
Those rear main journal radius's are short but that was the rear thrust as Tom said.Pull those other caps. From what Ive seen so far you should clean and build,why buy or even identify the bearings,odds are you or the purchaser wont wear them out.
hardtimes
Well-known member
May are most likely correct about wearing out a new set of shell bearings, but 'always' be prepared
!Also, I gave you wrong info , as the bearing id is at the TANG END of back of shell as shown by the picture that I just added.