install manifold gaskets dry?

Kirby1374

Kirby1374

Senior Member
This is take two at manifold gaskets. The first ones where cheepo paper based from a complete engine gasket set. They got oil soaked from my Marvel Mystery Oil cylinder treatment prior to start-up and squeezed/blown out after start-up and re-torquing. I bought some high quality copper clad gaskets and was wondering if any form of sealant i.e. permatex should be used? I was also torquing the nuts to 55#. Is that to much?
 
Do not need any sealant at all. 55# is way too much torque, try 30# or just use a short wrench and make snug. All you are trying to do is keep it from falling off while running. does your engine shake that much? - retighten after a few runs.
 
I was concerned about leaks, vacuum/exhaust. I also thought I had read the 55# in one of the parts catalogs.
 
Mr. Franklin you sir are right. I had to check where I thought i got that number and found in the Bratton's catalog that is says 25-30. No wonder the manifolds cracked. :(
 
Kirby1374 said:
Mr. Franklin you sir are right. I had to check where I thought i got that number and found in the Bratton's catalog that is says 25-30. No wonder the manifolds cracked. :(
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I was going to say "NOT ONLY IS 55 TOO MUCH, BUT I'M SURPRIZED YOU HAVEN'T BROKEN THE MANIFOLDS". You just confirmed my fears!!!:mad:

I always say NEVER use a torque wrench on the manifolds! Just use a short box wrench and make the nuts hand tight. NOT forcibly tight.

People don't realize that just because a nut and stud can take a certain torque DOESN'T mean the part being clamped can take the same torque.
 
Hi Kirby, we love taking the Coos Bay Wagon rd to the coast out of Lookingglass goes right into your town. It is a Model A style road.
 

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J Franklin said:
Hi Kirby, we love taking the Coos Bay Wagon rd to the coast out of Lookingglass goes right into your town. It is a Model A style road
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It is a nice road. My inlaws live in Dora, just west of Sitkum, so if we are headed to I5 from their house we take the wagon road.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I was going to say "NOT ONLY IS 55 TOO MUCH, BUT I'M SURPRIZED YOU HAVEN'T BROKEN THE MANIFOLDS". You just confirmed my fears!!!:mad:

I always say NEVER use a torque wrench on the manifolds! Just use a short box wrench and make the nuts hand tight. NOT forcibly tight.

People don't realize that just because a nut and stud can take a certain torque DOESN'T mean the part being clamped can take the same torque.
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Thanks, I bought another manifold set from a barner. I will be careful to just get them tight. I feel slightly stupid now $95 including shipping later :eek:
 
I do the same as Clyde.

Also make sure the CONCAVE side of the special thick manifold washers face the block. The nuts should only touch the high center of the CONVEX side.
 
When i uninstalled manifolds, i was shocked how loose they where.
Dont forget your gland rings.

Christoph in Frankfurt
 
A&L is giving an opinion only, plus they are in the business of selling new manifolds which may not be as brittle as an original one. 30# will do the job, re-torque after some use.
 
Talking about Coos Bay Road. There used to be a Model A bloke on here called Coos Bay Lumber. Anybody know what happened to him?

Manuel in Oz
 
Kirby1374, We have used Copper Cote on ALL metal clad gaskets from Briggs and Stratton head gaskets to Cat and Cummins head gaskets the stuff works great or I've been real lucky these last 40 yrs. Clyde
 
Clydes 31 P/U said:
Kirby1374, We have used Copper Cote on ALL metal clad gaskets from Briggs and Stratton head gaskets to Cat and Cummins head gaskets the stuff works great or I've been real lucky these last 40 yrs. Clyde
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Thanks, Is copper coat an adhesive? Will it "glue" the gasket in place and make it hard to remove later?
Excuse my ignorance :o
 
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