Misfire at high revs

Try another distributor body, as they sometimes short, usually between 3 and 4, and it's most likely to short under load.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Try another distributor body, as they sometimes short, usually between 3 and 4, and it's most likely to short under load.
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Thanks Tom. I've just had that problem and fixed it with a new body. Fir good measure, I lengthened the plug lead to #3 by soldering in about 3/8" so it stands clear of the body. No one has noticed yet!!!:D
 
DougT said:
Since we can't hook the scanner to it, how about a vacuum gauge? I haven't seen a sticky valve mentioned yet. Dare I say add MMO in the gas??
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Doug, the engine has done about 30,000 miles trouble free since rebuild. I think I'm way past worrying about sticky valves. I have never seen MMO here.

I've been chasing my tail trying to find W-18 plugs - no luck except on ebay but I can't contact the seller to confirm (a) number of plugs offered at the price and (b) freight. No one here stocks Champion or an equivalent.:mad::eek:

HELP!!
 
DougT said:
Since we can't hook the scanner to it, how about a vacuum gauge? I haven't seen a sticky valve mentioned yet. Dare I say add MMO in the gas??
Click to expand...

Ill pass on the vacuum gauge and use more concrete modern methods. :)
 
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Synchro909 said:
Doug, the engine has done about 30,000 miles trouble free since rebuild. I think I'm way past worrying about sticky valves. I have never seen MMO here.

I've been chasing my tail trying to find W-18 plugs - no luck except on ebay but I can't contact the seller to confirm (a) number of plugs offered at the price and (b) freight. No one here stocks Champion or an equivalent.:mad::eek:

HELP!!
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Champion now calls the W-18 = 518. Not all parts houses know this ...

I believe the TT15s are similar heat range but have not run any to see if they are OK...

Many of the plugs are now three numeric digits.

Here is Larry Brumfield's chart on heat ranges ...

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6458
 
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Benson said:
Champion now calls the W-18 = 518. Not all parts houses know this ...

I believe the TT15s are similar heat range but have not run any to see if they are OK...

Many of the plugs are now three numeric digits
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Thanks, I'll retry some of those parts suppliers.
 
Arnold,why don't you use the type of plug you were using when you went to WA,seemed to go OK then.
lawrie
 
You have quite the list of suggestions, of things to check. All the common stuff seems to have been mentioned. If you make it through the whole list and dont find it, maybe you have a weak valve spring or two. Good Luck
 
Lawrie said:
Arnold,why don't you use the type of plug you were using when you went to WA,seemed to go OK then.
lawrie
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Lawrie, I have always run TT10's for long trips like that. They are a colder than the others and better suited to long distance high speed touring especially with the motor working hard while towing. I think something a little hotter for around town is in order. What do you run in your P/U for running around Gladstone?
 
1929 said:
What type of spark plug wires are you using?
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I run the original Model A distributor body and leads (brass strips). Those leads can't break down if that's what you were thinking.
I've put in a good points and condenser distributor and I'll take it out for a test today. If problem is gone, I have isolated it to the dizzy, if not, I'll look at the carby and sort the FS distributor later.
 
Arnold ,I think they are ____( I can't remember) but just the std ones,BUT if you use the choke and let it idle for a bit then go to get going up to speed it will miss for a while ,I think until the plugs get rid of the soot,
Will look at the plugs type this morning.
I,m busy doing a major job on the 33,getting the pass side horn level.
leave tomorrow.
Lawrie
 
Lawrie said:
Arnold ,I think they are ____( I can't remember) but just the std ones,BUT if you use the choke and let it idle for a bit then go to get going up to speed it will miss for a while ,I think until the plugs get rid of the soot,
Will look at the plugs type this morning.
I,m busy doing a major job on the 33,getting the pass side horn level.
leave tomorrow.
Lawrie
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Lawrie, keep us posted on your progress.
My car was still missing after about 15K down the freeway. (Missing?? No it wasn't - I knew exactly where it was!:D:D)
 
Synchro909 said:
I run the original Model A distributor body and leads (brass strips). Those leads can't break down if that's what you were thinking.
I've put in a good points and condenser distributor and I'll take it out for a test today. If problem is gone, I have isolated it to the dizzy, if not, I'll look at the carby and sort the FS distributor later.
Click to expand...

Are those FS distributors, a self contained unit or do they have some kind of external control module?
 
Call or email Mel Mallory at FS Ignition and explain your simptoms. My guess is the igntion module is working perfect. It either works or it doesn't.
Timing this distributor correctly is important. It can be a little sensitive but it should not cause misfiring if it is off a little. You indicated the distributor button was changed. Make sure it is tight. If it isn't your distributor might have moved without you realizing it. You said you changed the coil it might not have the correct resistance value for your FS distributor module. My main guess is you have a fuel flow problem. First check if any filters you have in the line are blocked then check the carburetor for dirt or blockage. The high speed nozzle could be partially restricted or if this is a new carburetor it could have the wrong size nozzle which could restrict the flow at higher rpm's.
 
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