Won't start

Yup, if the engine stopped with the points closed the last time it ran then the coil is probably cooked with the key left on. Pull the coil wire off the distributor and then hold that end of the wire about a 1/4 inch or so from one of the cylinder head nuts. With the ignition turned on, use the starter to crank the engine over a few times and see if a spark will jump from the wire to the head nut.
 
Ck the basics ,,,
Fully charged battery
If u have a fuse on the starter make sure it is not blown
Ck for power to coil.
Ck points cond and gap
Yes you could have smoked the coil but ck these other things first
 
Last time I checked, (& not long ago), Wal-Mart has yellow "GE" analog multi-meters for sale in the $10.00 range.

If you get one and check (+) and (-) 6V or 12V readings, (starting at your battery), and following a Model A wiring diagram ....... precisely "where" you read zero (0) voltage is the location of your problem,
 
Pull off the instrument panel and check the connections at your ignition switch. The power goes up to the switch, then down to the coil. Make sure there is no break.
 
The original post states that now power is getting to the coil, if that is the case it's unlikely that the coil is defective. As previously said, get a meter and check the wiring, it couldn't be simpler than in a Model A.
 
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No spark at coil wire, then stop the engine with the points open, see if you have voltage at the movable contact with the key ON. If you do, then short across the open contacts and see if the coil wire jumps a good spark to the head nut.
 
Jacksonlll said:
Pull off the instrument panel and check the connections at your ignition switch. The power goes up to the switch, then down to the coil. Make sure there is no break.
Click to expand...


Actually the power goes from the coil down to the points. The points ground the circuit when they are closed

As Tom mentioned ck for power at the points while open which proves out the ignition switch...
 
With the remark after Won't Start: "Left key on battery up lights horn work ,no juice to coil cranks ok"

With past experience as a foreign language interpreter, this may just be a "Won't Start" Warning:

He left his key on the battery .... the upper lights and horn works .... no juice to the coil .... engine cranks OK.

In other words, "It Won't Start if you leave your keys on the battery."

Might be more to it if you think about it.
 
I think he is saying:
With the key on, the battery is fully charged, the lights & horn work, no juice going to coil, cranks okay = it won't start. I would say he has a bad ignition switch or switch connection.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
With the remark after Won't Start: "Left key on battery up lights horn work ,no juice to coil cranks ok"

With past experience as a foreign language interpreter, this may just be a "Won't Start" Warning:

He left his key on the battery .... the upper lights and horn works .... no juice to the coil .... engine cranks OK.

In other words, "It Won't Start if you leave your keys on the battery."

Might be more to it if you think about it.
Click to expand...

Some were too busy being critical of his language deficiency instead of trying to help. Wayne.
 
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Since the lights and horn work, you know he has power through the ammeter and terminal box, so if the coil has no power, that only leaves the black wire from the terminal box to the coil. It must be burned in two, which is very doubtful. So, is it bad information? Try the checks again with a test light all along the circuit.

Point open or key off, you should light up the test light at both terminal box wing nuts, and at both coil terminals.
 
Short Telegraph Messages:

Prior to telephones, messages that were sent by telegram were charged per letter in the alphabet.

To save money, a unique language of abbreviations followed that was widely known by business people to order merchandise by using these abbreviations.

Then the jokes started with planned misinterpretations of the messages.

We used to hear these jokes from old timers. LOL
 
notice the OP has not returned to clarify anything, so we are shooting in the dark. I suspect there is some misinformation here. We have had threads about no-start that have gone on for pages when there was miscommunication

"no juice to coil"
this needs to be clarified; no juice to coil based on what? test light? meter reading? no spark at coil wire?
 
With the remark: "Left key on battery up lights horn work ,no juice to coil cranks ok"; like often said above, could be almost anything; however, some people's questions are directed at just seeking a very common "single" cause & response for "Wont Start"

With the riddle question above here is my serious single interpretation that I witnessed most often ...... experienced often because of our humid area.

1. Tried starting, but "Wont Start". (But, starter cranks engine rapidly)

2. So, leave keyed switch ON; and next try,

3. Lights work, horn works; and,

4. Battery up ..... i.e., to par. (Ref: 1. because of rapid cranking)

5. No juice to coil .... see no plugs firing, see no spark from distributor end of coil wire ....... Hmmmmmmmm

6. Cranks OK ..... (Ref: 1. above)

7. One simple single fix with the very unique Model A "open" to moisture distributor body:

With a point file, clean the metal oxide off of points ..... spark now jumps at end of coil wire; hence, juice at coil.

8. Get back in car ....... crank ..... it starts.

Points hardly ever corroded with our old tractors with "closed" magneto & distributor bodies .... Model A & B points are constantly exposed to temperature and humidity changes with an wide opening in the side of the distributor body.

Hope this single, simple serious often occurring "Guess" helps.
 
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