Continuing Diff rebuild-new question

Al 29Tudor

Al 29Tudor

Well-known member
We located a very good diff but realized the carrier bearing races were warn. That caused us to remove the driveshaft to check the double race.
Attached are two pictures of some local pitting otherwise the race is good.
I would use the double race as is but wanted sage advice.
 

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Will it work? Probably

Will it last? Who knows - could be 3 weeks could be 30 years

Do you wanna rebuild the rear-end again in as little as 3 weeks? Up to you...
 
That race and mated bearing are shot... ..always replace bearings, races and seals on diffs and trannies ....it's not much money... It's the basics

These old rears have been through the mill... I have yet to open one and not find lots of cancer..
 
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Remember if the pitting is even only a few it just means you caught it early.
All of that Bearing material is Fatigued and it will continue to pit.
Where do you think the metal went that was inside that pit? Straight into your rollers.
If I was stranded on the side of the road in the desert I would use it.
If you don't want to ever do this job again replace all bearings and races as that metal has been circulating all thru the rear end.
 
I can't disagree with what the guys above have said. If the bearing is showing signs of wear, it is very worn all over. For all the hassle of doing the job again, it's a no brainer as far as I am concerned - replace the bearings. It's cheap insurance.
Remember to not preload the pinion bearing too much. That is a common mistake which I believe is due to the wrong information being published which gave figures in footpounds, rather than inchpounds.:eek:
 
it is prudent to always replace all the bearings and races when overhauling a rear axle assembly. The races in the photos in the original post look pretty bad to me.

Quite often I take a rear axle assembly apart and find that someone had replaced the bearings, but not the races. It is easy to tell as the races were Bower (original) and the bearings were Timken. The races are the other half of the bearing and should be replaced along with the bearings.

It is also important that the new carrier bearings press tightly onto the two hubs. Many times a mechanic of yesteryear overhauled the rear without concern for carrier bearing pre-load. Often they were set up too tight. Something had to give when the car was back on the road. Usually what happens is the carrier bearings would be spun on their mounts. This would cause metal to be machined off the hub and off the bearing stop. About three out of four overhauls I do I find the carrier hubs spun.

The carrier should then be replaced or the hubs knurled if there is enough metal left. Shims might also be needed against the bearings stops to compensate for metal machined off.

Tom Endy
 
What do you think about finding a set of old chipped false teeth in a Wal-Mart garbage can to replace your broken pair of false teeth?

Will they work? Sure ... on soft baked apples, watermelon, bananas & wet corn bread.

Next, try taking them on a weekend cruise on a cruise ship ..... accompanied with a hot date ..... with no dentist in sight .... where they served well done T-Bone steaks with hard crust artisan bread ................. gumming wet Cheerioes for breakfast the next morning is no fun.

Just chances we take in life ........... remember ......... the choice is yours.
 
Gentleman, once again I thank you all.
This place is a great classroom!
All the bearings and races will be ordered today.
Thanks again,
Al Leach
 
When you remove the the double race from the neck of the banjo do not use a bottle jack to remove it from the inside . The banjo is very easily distorted and even if it is only slightly out of round the bolt holes will not line up when you come to assemble the axle housings . I made a simple cheap tool to do this I will post pics when technology allows .That is if my son comes to my rescue !!!

John in cool rainy evening Suffolk County England .
 
An empty rear hub is the perfect size to use as a double race puller . It is better if the studs are still there as you can use a bar to hold the hub still while you tighten the nut . A length of threaded stock bar, a scrap bearing ,nut and washer etc etc complete the setup . The puller plate has cut corners to pull the front hub inner race as well, works a treat on both and does not distort the banjo . The pictures should show how it all works

John in same place same weather .
 
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The same story applies when installing a new race. Do not set in down on a shop press platform to press the race in or the banjo will become football shaped.

Hang it over a rail so that the pressure is against the inside of the banjo at the flange. What I do is use an old race with a small metal plate over top of it underneath the flange.

Tom Endy
 
PS Sometimes the race is very tight in the banjo, most likely been there for well over 80 years and does not want to leave home . In this case I heat the neck with a propane torch and then it comes out more easily .

John in same place same weather .
 
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Thank you Tom and John for the caution info on protecting the banjo.
John - nice pictures suggesting parts to use to pull the race since we don't have the prescribed tools.
Tom - I've read your right up from 2014 and am using it extensively as my guide. Love it!
Thank you gents for sharing your experience.
Al Leach
 
Too remove the double race , just run around the inside with arc welder , that shrinks it & easy to remove. Nice warm sunny day in spring time NZ , Digging new spuds ,1st of the season,
 
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