stuck Exhaust heat riser valve

5

55 vicky

Junior Member
Hello ALL
I have a 1955 Fairlane Victoria, 272, dual exhaust
The Exhaust heat riser valve is stuck.
I don't know if its open or closed.
It will bump down with a hammer
If down is open I will just bump it always down and let it stay stuck there.
Soaking it with WD 40 has not helped
Any Y BLOCK HEADS in Here
Thanks
Robert
 
I'm not sure if up or down is open on the heat riser valve. If it's stuck closed, it seems like the intake manifold crossover area would be getting very hot from forcing the exhaust through the intake. That should be one way to tell.

Try soaking the valve with PB Blaster over night. Then work it back and forth if possible.

Sal
 
not sure on the ford heat riser if up or down is open, but most G.M. and Chry. are open when the heavy (weighted, or large ) end is down. you can buy a rust penetrant/lubricant at any Chrysler dealer ( at least you used to be able to ) that is made just for this purpose. you can probably get something similar at a good parts store like NAPA. the big chain parts stores like Autozone and O' Riellys may not have it. the Chrysler stuff works very well. if you can get it in the open position, you can leave it there if you wish. its only function is to help atomize the fuel in the intake manifold when the eng. is cold. watch that the shaft is not loose in the bushing where it goes through the heat riser body. they sometimes are loose when you finally get them freed up and cause an exh. leak
 
Thanks guys
I assumed the counter weight down would be open too
My Vicky has dual exhaust so no cross over
Robert
 
scicala said:
..... If it's stuck closed, it seems like the intake manifold crossover area would be getting very hot from forcing the exhaust through the intake. .....
Click to expand...
55 vicky said:
..... My Vicky has dual exhaust so no cross over
Click to expand...
55 vicky
The exhaust crossover scicala is talking about is the one built into the bottom of the intake manifold. It crosses under the carb and heats the fuel/air mixture when the engine is cold, and the heat riser valve is closed.
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I got rid of mine in both YBlocks that I have. I find that it makes little difference in the warm up.

The parts suppliers have a spacer to replace it.
 
Get some real penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil and use the WD40 can for a paperweight. If you could somehow find the stuff Alaska Jim mentioned that would work the best but it's probably been outlawed by the EPA.
 
Since you have dual exhausts, simply hold your hand over the left pipe at the rear of the car while idling. If the butterfly is stuck closed, there will be a serious restriction in the exhaust coming out of the right pipe and it may even choke the engine down. If the butterfly is stuck open, the exhaust will flow freely out of the right pipe. This is an indication that the exhaust gases are flowing through the intake manifold and out the right side; of course if you rev it too much the restricted flow through the intake will present itself in the form of poor performance.
 
40 Deluxe said:
Get some real penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil and use the WD40 can for a paperweight. If you could somehow find the stuff Alaska Jim mentioned that would work the best but it's probably been outlawed by the EPA.
Click to expand...
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WD40 used to be a lubricant, but Now WD40 makes a rust penetrant too.
product-penetrant.png












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When moving the weight, look to see if the coil spring is moving to a tighter position (closed) or a more relaxed position (open). I once had the same problem and was able to free it up, only to later find the butterfly flap had rusted away completely, leaving only the shaft with no function at all. As mentioned earlier, just get rid of it!
 
You guys have helped me a lot
I sure give thanks for your time and advice
I don't know why I didn't just shoot the exhaust headers with the laser temp gauge
It would have let me know if that side of the engine was running hotter than the other side. Plum Fore got about the under carb cross over to
You guys are a world of knowledge
The car was suppose to have been restored ( yea right)
The picture shows it was closed. since then I have bumped it down to the open position. since its stuck there I will just let it stay stuck open
Thanks again for your help
its been on the crown vic association for 5 days with NO REPLYS
Bobby
 
Bobby, that's too bad about the Crown Victoria Association. Maybe not a lot of technical people there as opposed to people that just own and drive.

The Ford Barn is mostly always there with quick answers/suggestions. If any fault it would be too much help.

Sal
 
I guess the next question is, Do I have damage to the engine on that side
Oh well that's for another day when I get the bugs out of all the other things
that was suppose to be restored.
Thanks again all you are most helpful
Bobby
 
The only damage I can think of that may have resulted from a heat riser valve being stuck shut, would be burning the paint on the intake manifold crossover.

Sal
 
Sal
Thanks for your info as well as all the others that has helped me
I am sure before this thing is on the road, I will bother all of you even more
its encouraging to have experienced help when one needs it
thanks again
Bobby (55 Ford Vicky )
 
And the paint will burn any way because that is nature of the beast. Using the intake gaskets with the small hole helps a lot.

scicala said:
The only damage I can think of that may have resulted from a heat riser valve being stuck shut, would be burning the paint on the intake manifold crossover.

Sal
Click to expand...
 
Hey Paul
Can the crossover holes be totally covered with something?
I did this on one of my flatheads with dual carbs, and other than taking a bit longer to warm up, everythings fine. Just wondered what others may have done? Maybe a piece of asbestos?
Thanks
Jim
 
In another thread a while back someone mentioned using a piece of stainless steel
about .007 (?) thick, but the memory is foggy.
 
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