correctpaint

L

lakeside

Senior Member
I'm painting a 31 Fordor ,ChicleDrab/Copra Drab. It will not be a body off resto.
Should it be painted with 1. single stage urethane or 2. base coat clear coat? Is one ''more correct'' than the other or doesn't it matter.? I've heard all the black should be single stage urethane for the deeper,richer color.
Any body men that specialize in A's have an opinion.Thank you.
 
Single stage is more correct. Base coast/clear coat has a more modern wet look. Warning! If you use Copra Drab PPG Concept single stage paint, it was the wrong color when I painted my car about 3 years - a gray instead of a brown. I doubt PPG changed the code as when I called them in Strongsville, OH, they acted like they didn't really care.
Rusty Nelson
 
The couple of body men I spoke to never mentioned laquer. I do have a Mustang in 20 year old laquer and it's falling apart but that's old technology too.
 
from MAFCA:

PAINT FORMULAS

Question:
I am restoring a 1928 Fordor, body style 60A. The paint colors I am going to use are Rose Beige, Seal Brown and Orange for the stripe. Are there any formulas or codes available for these colors in acrylic enamel or polyurethane paints? Thank you for any information you may have. -- John Hand, Boise, Idaho Answer: Model A paint formulas are not available. This applies to modern paint. Your paint dealer will have to mix and match. The old lacquer paint formulas are still available but your State EPA may not allow you to buy the paint....There was a paint dealer in Oregon that has most of the colors and can mix them - Color Specialties in Springfield, but they're no longer in business.
updated.jpg
11/04/13 -- Lyle Meek, Technical Director, 1997
 
i have the new refomulated paint codes for the model a if i can figure out how to get them to you, im a computer idiot, if nothing else let me know what colors you want
 
lakeside said:
The couple of body men I spoke to never mentioned laquer. I do have a Mustang in 20 year old laquer and it's falling apart but that's old technology too.
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Typically, if you are having paint issues with Lacquer, it isn't the fault of the paint. :o Instead it is the substrates that were installed incorrectly. In my shop we use Lacquer with success however we do the bodywork correctly too. FWIW, I can show you Model-A's with original Lacquer paint and they are not cracked or falling off. Ask yourself how much primer & filler Ford used originally! ;)

With regard to what looks correct, I guess you really need to have something to compare it to where you completely understand the point I am trying to make. If you have a panel sprayed with Nitrocellulose Lacquer, and then compare it to sprayed urethane (either S/S or BC/CC) you immediately see the difference. Folks speak of using flatteners in the paint however when you compare flattened urethane to unbuffed Lacquer, you again can spot the difference. I liken it to comparing the old VW Beetle to the new-style VW Beetle. To some folks they look the same. To others there is a huge difference. :D I hope this helps.
 
lakeside said:
i'm painting a 31 fordor ,chicledrab/copra drab. It will not be a body off resto.
Should it be painted with 1. Single stage urethane or 2. Base coat clear coat? Is one ''more correct'' than the other or doesn't it matter.? I've heard all the black should be single stage urethane for the deeper,richer color.
Any body men that specialize in a's have an opinion.thank you.
Click to expand...
if you want a real deep black use nason ful-thane 2k urethane code: Dx8 this was a chryser black in 1950.
 
You are correct regarding the base work on the Mustang..it was poor from the start. I had a fairlane in laquer that held up over the same time period,just some small ,thin fissures. In your shop do you do one type ie. single stage urethane or base coat clear coat more often? or neither?
 
Hi Lakeside! First question is where are you. If your in a climate that doesn't change to much then Lacquer is fine. I'm north of Buffalo NY. about 120 miles. Here the change in weather is extreme so Lacquer only lasts about 3 years and starts to break down. Single stage Urethane is the way to go for the fenders. Base clear is nice for two-toning as you can spray both colours and then clear coat the complete job. Your best bet is to talk to the painter that going to spray the car and find out what he likes to work with. This car was done in Base/Clear in the colours your talking about using.

John Poole Body and Paint 45 years and counting!!
 

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I am painting the fenders of my 29 tudor in single stage Urethane, but the body in acrylic lacquer. I much prefer spraying lacquer, both in the ease of application and the final look. Since for most of us our model A's are pampered pets and will rarely see inclement weather, I don't think the longevity of the lacquer finish will be an issue.
 

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I'm in northern Minnesota,150 miles from the Canadian border. Temperatures from 90+
to 30-. Thanks for the info and photos. Urethane seems to be the paint for the fenders although I guess it's more difficult to fix if you get damage which seems odd since you would think with clear coat etc. on base coat clear coat that that would be more difficult.
 
Had a 25 Studebaker big six sedan that had been stored with back in the dark for 60 years +-. the original blue nitro paint was still very nice with no cracks.I was amazed how well it lasted and looked.but forward paint that was near the light or in the light was totally shot.
 
Shops can't spray lacquer and acry. enamel in Calif. any longer due to EPA regs. Many states may also be going towards water borne for the base coat but the clears are still "solvent" based. The benefit of single stage is that the color is all the way through and imperfections and touch up can be easier to repair. TCP Global in southern Cal. can get very close to the original formulas and can ship lacq. to states other than Calif.. Chicle is Ditz-LAC IM-91, Copra is IM-440.
 
Single stage urethane paint when sprayed properly comes out very glossy. If you buff it out then it cuts the gloss down and you get something closer to a factory paint look with all the advantages of modern.

BC/CC is just a deep gloss. It does not look right to me on the A knowing what the factory 'muddy' colored somewhat gloss look should be.

I used the term muddy because the tints were not as good as todays tints to the colors would also not be so perfect.

What it boils down to is most people do not really know the differences from original gloss or color. Do the car so it looks good for you. Personally I like a single stage paint that has been buffed as the best compromise using modern paints for an old feel. None of the BC/CC A's look right to me, just too much gloss and depth. Keep in mind my brother's A was painted with lacquer so I have an idea of factory gloss.
 
lakeside said:
I'm in northern Minnesota,150 miles from the Canadian border. Temperatures from 90+
to 30-. Thanks for the info and photos. Urethane seems to be the paint for the fenders although I guess it's more difficult to fix if you get damage which seems odd since you would think with clear coat etc. on base coat clear coat that that would be more difficult.
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You can blend repairs to Urethane enamel using this VERY expensive blending solvent (picture 1). This gallon cost $85!
 

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