Engine Hard To Start Question

Still not running – I spent most of the morning working on the timing. I replaced the points and condenser then went thru the steps outlined in "Model A Ignition Timing – Making It Right". I verified that there was spark at the points at the completion of the timing procedure. The engine is still difficult to start and keep running but the short time that it is running it appears to be smother than before the timing was adjusted. It seems to run longer if I choke the engine. I am suspecting the carburetor but I am at a loss as to what to check. I had the carburetor rebuilt just a week ago.

Does anyone have any other suggestion?

I appreciate the help.

Thanks

Bob
 
When it stops are you getting a good spark at the plugs and coil-to-distributor king lead? How long d'you have to wait before it'll restart.? Try runnining it with cap off gas tank to elinimate non vented cap( see previous suggestion-it's caught me out before). What's the fuel like when you run it out of the fuel pipe? Let it flow freely for several minutes ( into a fuel can - expensive stuff)?
 
Mitch

I'm a little embarrased. When I received your post yesterday I only saw the cartoon and the first page. In looking back to your post and moving the curser is I see I missed the other part of your post. I am on my way back to read it in it's entirety. Thanks Bob
 
I just went out and tried to see if there was spark from the coil wire to ground by opening and closing the points with the ignition. I do have spark from the coil wire to ground (Yellow/blue but I am also getting a spark from the coil to one of the two terminals on the coil itself. Could that mean a defective coil?
 
bob
that sounds like a cracked coil! are you saying the coil is arcing from the center to the posts?
If so its shorting out!
 
tuneman
Thats what I am seeing. I could hear it earlier in the daylight when I set the timing but I didn't see it until this evening. That could be part of my starting problems.
 
i have been getting some pm's about getting copy's of post # 16 on this thread. here are some easy steps to print it out and make your own book.

right click on each page one at a time
then click save picture as
this will put it in your "my picture" folder
you can then print out each page from your"my pictures" on your computer
remember there are 16 PAGES which you have to do separately

OR try this maybe faster

You can also click and drag to select the entire booklet, ctrl c to copy - open a word doc. and then ctrl v to paste it into the doc. and it will come out with all the pages separate.
 
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Bob, I always check the coil by turning over the motor until the points are closed, then with the key on, pull the coil wire from the distributor cap holding it close to a ground, then open and close the points with your thumb, should have a nice blue spark atleast a 1/4 to 1/2" every time you open and close the points, if so, coil is good.

edit: should have read your post better, (cracked coil)
 
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IrishHills

I did exactly what you said and I got a yellow/blue spark from the coil to ground but at the same time I get a spark at the coil to a low voltage terminal

Bob
 
Bob Grieb said:
IrishHills

I did exactly what you said and I got a yellow/blue spark from the coil to ground but at the same time I get a spark at the coil to a low voltage terminal

Bob
Click to expand...

make sure it is a good clean ground and test again. if its not a good ground that can cause the spark to back out somewhere else. also you can mist the area where you saw the spark with a spray bottle of water very lightly. that will help induce any spark leakage
 
See if that spark is jumping between coil terminals went its cranking and not starting. If so , the coil is bad. If not I think you have a very good spark and you have a fuel issue.When you are testing spark with a wide gap you are maxing out the coil and it will spark anywhere it can.You may also have high resistance in the coil wire causing that stray spark.
 
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Thanks for the recent thoughts regarding sparking. I will retest in the morning and see what happens. I never thought I would have problems getting the engine to start and run. I am learnig as I go.

Thanks

Bob
 
Are you getting sparks jumping to the primary terminal when you hold the coil wire 1/4" from ground? You could space the gap to 1/2" to see how the spark looks, but it's not good to go much farther with the coil wire and it's never good to disconnect a spark plug when checking cylinders for power. Instead you should short the plug to ground by using a screwdriver. Any time there is an open in the secondary coil circuit the spark will seek the easiest path to ground, and that is by way of the primary terminal or an internal short in the coil. Once a carbon path is burned in the coil tower, then it's much easier for the spark to follow the same path, especially when the spark plugs need the most voltage, like flooring the throttle.
 
This morning I reconnected the high voltage wire from the coil back to the distributor and the shorting that had occurred at the coil is no longer an issue when cranking the engine. I am assuming that the coil is not and issue and that spark to the plugs is not an issue which makes me suspect the carburetor. I had it rebuilt but I have doubts about it. Do you have an opinion?

Thanks

Bob
 
Like said above, make sure your plugs are not wet, there was a post here about a newly rebuilt motor that they tried everything to get it running and it was just that. Maybe blow them off good with compressed air.
 
The plugs are not new but I did clean them and regap them and they do show spark when the engine is cranking. I have been told that the engine does not require a lot of choking however when I do get the engine to catch and run for a few seconds the application of the choke half way open helps keep the engine running longer.
 
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