Restored My Cracked Steering Wheel

jrhaelig

jrhaelig

Senior Member
Like many of us I had cracks at the top and bottom of each spoke on my steering wheel.

It was to the point that one of the cracks bloodied my finger a few months ago, so I knew I needed to do something.

Yesterday I mixed up some JB Weld & stuffed the cracks. A few minutes with some 80 grit followed by 150 gave me some excellent results.

A few strokes with a black marker and by golly it's as good as the rest of the truck - and no more bloody fingers!

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Flash is a bit bright, but the daylight results are great.
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That JBweld is great stuff. My steering wheels don't need it but if they did I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
 
I used JB Weld to repair my steering wheel also. After a year or so it appeared to shrink the the repairs are visible. Maybe I should have let the JB Weld cure for several days before I started to work it. I see that the directions say that it can be machined.
 
I used PC-7 as well and that was 10 years ago and painted the wheel with black acrylic lacquer. I follow the book: Steering Wheel Restoration Handbook by Jack Turpin. I bought the book from Eastwoods. Has some very good info.

Henry
 
I just did my VW steering wheel was in very bad shape, used PC7 one reason is no sag or drip and can work with it up to an hour, and is workable also with denatured alcohol and icing knife to minimize sanding etc. They also make a product called Fix It Stick which as well is a 2 part epoxy, you simply cut the portion needed nead between your fingers or palms and press into joints etc. I will try my hand restoring my 47 Ford wheel next. Here are a few photo's

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this one photo below had a section of 1/2" in height and 3" in length completely missing I used the spray can cap as a foundation along with a piece of was paper as a membrane between cap and PC7 as it does not stick to wax paper so I could remove cap after it dried.
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photo below all sanded nicely and ready for primer coat
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primer coat below:
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base coat below:

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Needs another base coat, then some clear and good to go. I had never done this before watched a youtube video and figured what do I have to lose, a repro cost $550.00 spent about $20 in material, used 60 grit, 100 grit, 800 grit..sandpaper
 
Nice work, guys! I like these repairs, they look great and are VERY affordable to do yourself.
 
PC-7 was the best for years upon years. I used it myself for many years and many wheels with great results.
However, nowadays you might want to consider body filler designed for plastic bumpers, etc. It is specifically designed to withstand temperature extremes, shocks, and will not shrink.
 
I used the PC7 also. I had quite a few cracks to repair. I use a dremel to help key in the epoxy. D/P prime, base coat clear coat. By the way. The trim is real bird's eye maple. That took a little work. lol

 
Kube said:
PC-7 was the best for years upon years. I used it myself for many years and many wheels with great results.
However, nowadays you might want to consider body filler designed for plastic bumpers, etc. It is specifically designed to withstand temperature extremes, shocks, and will not shrink.
Click to expand...

That's what I've been using for years and it has worked well for me. I especially like the fact that it has some resistance to it like the plastic bumpers and it does not shrink.
 
jrhaelig said:
Like many of us I had cracks at the top and bottom of each spoke on my steering wheel.

It was to the point that one of the cracks bloodied my finger a few months ago, so I knew I needed to do something.

Yesterday I mixed up some JB Weld & stuffed the cracks. A few minutes with some 80 grit followed by 150 gave me some excellent results.

A few strokes with a black marker and by golly it's as good as the rest of the truck - and no more bloody fingers!

picture.php


Flash is a bit bright, but the daylight results are great.
picture.php
Click to expand...

Today you can get Black JB weld.
Did you do the work with the wheel on the car?
 
Last edited:
OK - so PC7 is better and I could have gotten black JBWeld. I did do it with the wheel installed so it was only about an hour invested.

If it blows out in 8 or 10 years I'll do it over.
 
jrhaelig said:
OK - so PC7 is better and I could have gotten black JBWeld. I did do it with the wheel installed so it was only about an hour invested.

If it blows out in 8 or 10 years I'll do it over.
Click to expand...

Good to know.
Maybe I have a wrong attitude... But with a cars this old I am always afraid of taking things apart unless I really have too. Because, Bolts and parts can become rusted solid into one piece. Where these was once a nut and and bolt and fitting....Now it has become one solid mass..That could hold well for the next 30 years, but if you try to dissassemble it you could break surrounding parts that were perfectly good.
I would rather slowly and carefully fill the cracks in my steering wheel while on the car.
Funny, I remember a post on this board where someone said,
All that needs to be done on his car was to remove all the parts, strip them and the paint and reinstall..."That should not cost much? Right!"
The guy that asked this question probably never tried to remove ONE rusted nut before. VERY FUNNY
 
FrankWest, you are correct unless you know how it comes apart and have the correct tools, usually best to leave it alone until you know.. because at times can lead to bigger head aches. Perhaps the JBWeld has added the additional strength so that at some point you can remove the wheel and touch it up a bit with some paint, then again not everything has to be perfect. Good job..
 
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