why no blowers in daily drivers?
- Thread starter bugsiegel
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Ol' Ron
Well-known member
The Eaton blower off the Buick has the air input in the rear. The AF is directed into a throttle bore where The AF either goes into the engine or the blower. Smething like progtrssive linkage. You only get boost when the vacuum drops to a certain level. Your question about the distrobution of fuel in the intake manifold is a good one. I'm using an old Fenton Intake and the runners are small and of the 180 deg design and should distribute the AF equal, but we won't know till we try it.
The Buick had Port injection so this is not an issue. I'm using a single 2GC.
The Buick had Port injection so this is not an issue. I'm using a single 2GC.
lowandratty
Member
Ron, did you use a 4bbl. intake to make the adapter for the blower ? The bottom of those Buick blowers have the big hole and a small round hole, why ?
lowandratty
Member
Ron
So in theory the blower is not producing any boost at idle and all the af mix go's through the small hole, then when you open it up and drop vac. it builds boost and puts all that through the big hole.
So you could use a blow-thru 4bbl carb on the manifold and mount the blower over top of 1 of the heads and build a basic tube from the bottom of the blower to the top of the carb. with just an air filter mounted to the rear of this blower, or get as fancy as you want and even pipe in a intercooler.
This type of blower on the buick is for air only, no fuel, I was under the impression that a blower just for air has tighter fit between the rotors, and a blower with fuel going through it has a looser set up, as the fuel helps make the seal. Am I totally wrong on my thoughts ???
This is very interesting to me, I have thought about using this set up many times before but never went past thinking in my mind. I really want to know how this works out for you.
I haven't hit the lotto yet so buying a set up from H&H is out of the question for now.
So in theory the blower is not producing any boost at idle and all the af mix go's through the small hole, then when you open it up and drop vac. it builds boost and puts all that through the big hole.
So you could use a blow-thru 4bbl carb on the manifold and mount the blower over top of 1 of the heads and build a basic tube from the bottom of the blower to the top of the carb. with just an air filter mounted to the rear of this blower, or get as fancy as you want and even pipe in a intercooler.
This type of blower on the buick is for air only, no fuel, I was under the impression that a blower just for air has tighter fit between the rotors, and a blower with fuel going through it has a looser set up, as the fuel helps make the seal. Am I totally wrong on my thoughts ???
This is very interesting to me, I have thought about using this set up many times before but never went past thinking in my mind. I really want to know how this works out for you.
I haven't hit the lotto yet so buying a set up from H&H is out of the question for now.
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Magnason uses the Eaton blower in a carburetaded system, using a blower similar to this one. You can Google both Magnason and Eaton to get a feel of the blower it's self. Their Kit uses a larger blower, but operating on the same principal.
The Ford Thunderbird also used this system back in the mid 90's and I know of several modified for flatheads.
The Ford Thunderbird also used this system back in the mid 90's and I know of several modified for flatheads.
3quarter32
Senior Member
I have a blower and manifold for my 60hp, but decided not to use it. Needed make an adaptor plate, but was wanting to get the ole gal on the road.
Lee
Lee
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
Another thought with the blowers. A blower will create quite a bit of additional heat and engine load.
The front main bearing should receive some attention as increased stress is applied with the blower drive.
The front main bearing should receive some attention as increased stress is applied with the blower drive.
Blownflatheaddeuce
Senior Member
I love the blown 8BA in my 3W.
Blownflatheaddeuce
Senior Member
Sorry Ron I was on the fly when i posted the pic
Pls see the spex below :
3 5/16" + .030", non relieved 8BA block, short fill of Hard Block (mixed with iron shavings
Scat 4 1/8" crank
Scat 7" H Beam rods
Ross forged pistons
Custom Doug King steel caps, ARP SB MoPar mains studs
Studded heads and mains
Ported int and exhaust
1.6 Chevy valves
Custom Tatom blower cam, adjustables, Isky springs/shims, c/moly retainers
Edelbrock 1116 CNC, deep chambered heads
Hayden Mitchell blower intake
Modded pan with crank scraper and windage tray
Elec dist/MSD 6BTM/recurved Mallory dual point dist with and single point triggering the MSD box. No vaccum advance.
GMC 4-71, 2 x Stromberg WW carbs
Exhaust has been changed to Belond type headers with a mandrel bent 2" OD exhaust running through Smithy type glasspacks.
My distributor has around 16 deg of mech timing built into it - all in by 2K rpm. From the outset I had dialled in around 6 deg of initial timing and combined with the mech adv (no vac adv on this puppy) I had a total of around 22 deg of timing. Usually I like to run around 10-12 initial timing on a blown engine to keep em kool on the street and run the balance of timing via mech advance to suit the engine combo, weight of the car etc.
I have fitted an MSD 6BTM ( BTM = Boost Timing Master). As you guys know, controlling spark timing in a blown engine is of the utmost importance.This would enable me to lean on this engine while removing timing with a boost referenced setup that would (or should) protect the thing from lunching itself. From this MSD box, there runs a vac tube that connects to a bung I fitted to the intake plenum to provide a source of vacuum to allow the MSD to work correctly.
The way it works is as follows. The box has a plug in adjuster in that allows you to dial in either 1, 2 or 3 degress of timing reduction per pound of boost. So if you set it at a 1 degree reduction, then it would remove 1 degree of timing per pound of boost. Im my case at the 1 deg setting at 7 psi boost it will remove 7 deg of timing. If I set it at 2 deg, then it will remove a total of 14 deg of timing at full boost and so on.
It works brilliantly and I've yet to pop a head gasket or do any damage. This is with Premium pump gas.
The Stromberg WWs flow around 250 cfm each which is what I wanted and have a mechanical type power valves. They are set up with a direct linkage. I cant remember the actual jetting (id need to pull out my build folder) but from memory jetting was in the 50s with great EGTs and plugs look great. I've also run a boost referenced 600 Holley DP blower carb - works even better and less chance of leanouts up top, but IMO does'nt look as nice. It does fit under the hood though !
Fuel economy wise? Well, I run 3.9s gears (really would like to swap them out for 3.5s) and run a 5 speed trans with around 2400rpm @ 60 mph/100kph. She pretty good on the old benzene unless I stand on it all the time - at low rpm, there is very little boot and when coasting under no throttle vacuum reads around 18-20" Hg.
To be honest I don't really care about fuel economy as she's not a daily driver (easily could be though hehe)
Hoe this helps !
BFD
Pls see the spex below :
3 5/16" + .030", non relieved 8BA block, short fill of Hard Block (mixed with iron shavings
Scat 4 1/8" crank
Scat 7" H Beam rods
Ross forged pistons
Custom Doug King steel caps, ARP SB MoPar mains studs
Studded heads and mains
Ported int and exhaust
1.6 Chevy valves
Custom Tatom blower cam, adjustables, Isky springs/shims, c/moly retainers
Edelbrock 1116 CNC, deep chambered heads
Hayden Mitchell blower intake
Modded pan with crank scraper and windage tray
Elec dist/MSD 6BTM/recurved Mallory dual point dist with and single point triggering the MSD box. No vaccum advance.
GMC 4-71, 2 x Stromberg WW carbs
Exhaust has been changed to Belond type headers with a mandrel bent 2" OD exhaust running through Smithy type glasspacks.
My distributor has around 16 deg of mech timing built into it - all in by 2K rpm. From the outset I had dialled in around 6 deg of initial timing and combined with the mech adv (no vac adv on this puppy) I had a total of around 22 deg of timing. Usually I like to run around 10-12 initial timing on a blown engine to keep em kool on the street and run the balance of timing via mech advance to suit the engine combo, weight of the car etc.
I have fitted an MSD 6BTM ( BTM = Boost Timing Master). As you guys know, controlling spark timing in a blown engine is of the utmost importance.This would enable me to lean on this engine while removing timing with a boost referenced setup that would (or should) protect the thing from lunching itself. From this MSD box, there runs a vac tube that connects to a bung I fitted to the intake plenum to provide a source of vacuum to allow the MSD to work correctly.
The way it works is as follows. The box has a plug in adjuster in that allows you to dial in either 1, 2 or 3 degress of timing reduction per pound of boost. So if you set it at a 1 degree reduction, then it would remove 1 degree of timing per pound of boost. Im my case at the 1 deg setting at 7 psi boost it will remove 7 deg of timing. If I set it at 2 deg, then it will remove a total of 14 deg of timing at full boost and so on.
It works brilliantly and I've yet to pop a head gasket or do any damage. This is with Premium pump gas.
The Stromberg WWs flow around 250 cfm each which is what I wanted and have a mechanical type power valves. They are set up with a direct linkage. I cant remember the actual jetting (id need to pull out my build folder) but from memory jetting was in the 50s with great EGTs and plugs look great. I've also run a boost referenced 600 Holley DP blower carb - works even better and less chance of leanouts up top, but IMO does'nt look as nice. It does fit under the hood though !
Fuel economy wise? Well, I run 3.9s gears (really would like to swap them out for 3.5s) and run a 5 speed trans with around 2400rpm @ 60 mph/100kph. She pretty good on the old benzene unless I stand on it all the time - at low rpm, there is very little boot and when coasting under no throttle vacuum reads around 18-20" Hg.
To be honest I don't really care about fuel economy as she's not a daily driver (easily could be though hehe)
Hoe this helps !
BFD
Last edited:
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
Tighter clearance and more lube if possible.
Sure we do distributors for blown engine , not a problem...
Ol' Ron
Well-known member
Well this project was nipped in the bud by a crack in the #5 exhaust port. This happened befor we put the blower in the engine. So we had to go to plan "B" and install the 280 Flathead with a 3 spd with OD. Other than the pistons (3 5/16 +.020) the engine is a stock Merc. Money is hard to come buy and I don't have another 8BA block or I'd go for it. I do have a 59 engine (248), but that won't bolt to the trans. Been looking for a "Hogs head" but again running out of funds. Have to get the truck on the road and stop putzing with all this stuff. This is very disapointing, had two side draft carter carbs for the blower, which would fit better under then hood.
Graeme / New Zealand
Well-known member
Saw a T shirt at a hot rod show once "injection is nice but I'd rather be blown" ( sorry had to throw that one in, I'm not really offering anything useful to this thread)
GB
GB
Aquestion for Blown flathead deauce,
Are you running a backfire relief? If so can you post a pic?I have a couple of 471 blowers already built and two mitchell intakes, what is the length of the blower snout? I will use an L-100B cam in one and I have quite a few ignition choices, Modified GM, Mallory yl,Mallory Unilite ,vertex mag. with 10 deg. advance, modified chry. electronic dist. etc. I am considering an early327 balancer. flatattack main support mainsupport with the plate to main cap setup, the engines will be 3-5/16" x4" with Ross forged pistons,Original n.o.s Zephyr or Isky valve springs. 1.5 Milodon valves.I havent decided on heads , Iam considering either E.A.C Merc.,8-B.A ford,OFFY 425"S or offy 400"s, Fenton coated headers, my main concern is the crank drive, what are the rest of you all using for the crank drive? I need some ideas here. I want to run v-belts if possible.
Thanks,
Fordestes,
Are you running a backfire relief? If so can you post a pic?I have a couple of 471 blowers already built and two mitchell intakes, what is the length of the blower snout? I will use an L-100B cam in one and I have quite a few ignition choices, Modified GM, Mallory yl,Mallory Unilite ,vertex mag. with 10 deg. advance, modified chry. electronic dist. etc. I am considering an early327 balancer. flatattack main support mainsupport with the plate to main cap setup, the engines will be 3-5/16" x4" with Ross forged pistons,Original n.o.s Zephyr or Isky valve springs. 1.5 Milodon valves.I havent decided on heads , Iam considering either E.A.C Merc.,8-B.A ford,OFFY 425"S or offy 400"s, Fenton coated headers, my main concern is the crank drive, what are the rest of you all using for the crank drive? I need some ideas here. I want to run v-belts if possible.
Thanks,
Fordestes,